Soup of the Evening, Beautiful Soup

I didn’t manage to experience (immersively!) the installation by the conceptual artist Rirkrit Tiravanija at the Hirshhorn last summer, but I did arrange a visit to Glenstone before the end of its similar exhibit.  It closes April 5, so there’s still time to immerse yourself.

A Sign at the Arrival Hall is a Tip-off: Why We’re There

In the large room holding FEAR EATS THE SOUL, the walls are covered with a growing collection of graffiti, slowly obscuring the enormous, eponymous stenciled exhibit name.  The middle of the room holds two enclosures, one with a small display of everyday objects coated in silvery palladium glaze, and one with a working silk-screening studio.

The studio produces tee shirts custom-made to order for visitors, with a choice of absurdist phrases provided by the artist and available for purchase.  In order to fully immerse myself in the experience, I ordered one with BRING ON THE LOBSTERS printed in big capital letters.  Why that particular phrase?  Because it was vaguely food-themed, and reminded me of the Lobster Quadrille in Alice in Wonderland.  

Barry Poses With Lobster Shirt

And speaking of the Mock Turtle, the element of this exhibit that fetched me out to Glenstone on this day was actually happening at the other end of the cavernous room: tables with big pots of soup, being handed out to visitors by servers who were a lot cheerier than the messages on their aprons.  One read, for instance, THE DAYS OF THIS SOCIETY ARE NUMBERED. (But to be fair, another read SOUP FEEDS THE SOUL.)  We were then encouraged to sit at picnic tables and eat, and share.  I dutifully did so.

It was vegetarian corn soup with lentils and carrots.  There were bowls of cheese to be added at one’s discretion.  The portions were small.  This soup was not meant as nourishment but as symbolism, in keeping with the rest of the exhibit.

While, spoonful by spoonful, the soup became immersed in me, I engaged my fellow art lovers in conversation.  I started by asking them to critique the soup.  “it’s all right – I’ve had better,” said Lou Ellen.  Judith opined that the soup was interesting but the exhibit did not appeal to her.  To Holly, the soup was nicely spicy, and grows on you as you eat.

We did go on to discuss some aspects of politics and world affairs, springboarded by the exhibit topics – so I guess the immersive aspect was indeed accomplished.

I was a little off my stride, as photography was forbidden inside the galleries.  I would have liked to include a few images of the soup and ambiance, but even when I promised not to include any of the graffiti or other art, the word was NO.

As I managed to get off a shot of the anteroom to the exhibit with a neon sign reading either SOUP or NO SOUP depending on, well, you can probably figure that out for yourself, I was  stopped by a friendly but firm gallery attendant.  She assured me the sign was part of the art, and off limits.  Since the differential of contrast has washed out the message in this picture, I think it’s OK to include it here.

Soup or No Soup, There Is No Try

Since the soup was conceptual and not so well reified as lunch, we adjourned to the Café for something more filling, and an actual image of people eating.

The Cafe is the Place for Lunch

There were other photo-ops scattered around the grounds, as always at this masterfully designed intermingling of building and landscape design.  Even if any specific exhibit may disappoint, the overall effect is to lift the spirit and inspire a sense almost of transcendence.

Main Pavilions Loom Over Meadow
This Statue Resembles the Glazed Objects in the Unphotographable Exhibit
A Leaf Caught Mid-Fall

 And I finally got a close-up view of Split-Rocker.  It’s bigger than it looks from the main path, and well worth the uphill trudge.

Approaching Split-Rocker: About Tree Height
And Close-up, With Humans for Scale
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So Much Art! So Little Time.

Last year saw a surfeit of wonderful art exhibits at Washington’s museums.  For two at the National Gallery of Art, I can happily report on elements of food and cooking. 

The Life of Animals in Japanese Art ran from June 2 to August 18, 2019. 

Alas, this exhibit has already closed, but if you saw it, you know that it had a wonderful collection of art objects, all depicting animals or animal-like characteristics, ranging from religious themes, armor, pop art, clothing, and more, from Hokusai to Kusama to Issey Miyake.

The press breakfast for this exhibit featured some nods to Japan, in honor of the sponsors and diplomatic guests: green tea muffins, rice with a choice of toppings, toast with red bean paste.

The Sort-of Japanese Breakfast

During the tour, NGA Director Kaywin Feldman and the Japanese Ambassador admired the giant warrior god.

Director Feldman and Japanese Dignitaries

This wonderfully lifelike crab decorated the centerpiece of a serving-ware display.  The octopus box has its own winsome charm.

Seafood on Display

There were other examples of serving dishes, these chargers among them.  Full disclosure: My zodiac sign is a tiger.

They Both Look Ready to Charge

There were several depictions of the moon rabbit legend, pounding rice for the Moon Goddess.

The Rabbit on the Moon

Still open, I promise, is Alonso Berruguete: First Sculptor of Renaissance Spain, through February 17, 2020.  While I found nothing food-related to report in the exhibit, I’m delighted to relay that the Garden Café is presenting a selection of dishes “inspired by the cuisine of Renaissance Spain.”  Cheeses, meats and desserts are on offer, and mains include a delicious oven-roasted chicken paella curated by Executive Chef Christopher Curtis.  (Paella for breakfast? Why not?)

Chef Chris Continues to Turn Out Delicious Dishes

More information about Chef Chris can be found in my previous article: The Apple, the Coffeepot, the Chef, and the Artist.

Meat, Cheese and Churros

Many culturally-connected Spanish citizens were present at the press event.  I compared notes with Maria about the churros with chocolate sauce, so this is not just my opinion: the sauce was too thin!  But we agreed that the paella, meats, and cheeses were first-rate.

And the exhibit is spectacular.  The first room, filled with paintings, drawings and sculpture, only hints at the splendor of the second.  It’s filled with sculped, gilded figures from the retablo mayor (high altarpiece) of the church of San Benito el Real in Valladolid, Spain, lent by that city’s Museo Nacional de Escultura.   Pictures cannot do it justice – you should go see it, and take in the gilded splendor of the massed figures for yourself.

Exhibit Curators With Director Feldman, and Eavesdroppers
A Corner of the Retablo Room
The Flight into Egypt
Abraham and Issac
Two Pensive Figures
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We All Scream for Jeni’s: Two More Splendid Ice Cream Shops to Open

The first Jeni’s Splendid Ice Creams Scoop Shop in our area opened in October, 2017, at 17th and U St. NW.  I was at the opening, but for some inexplicable reason neglected to post about the event.  Now, I have an opportunity to atone for my negligence by reporting on some great news: there will be two (two!) scoop shops opening on the same day next week!

One will be in Bethesda, the other in Alexandria.  Fans are invited to celebrate the Bethesda scoop shop grand opening on Thursday, December 19 from 7-11 p.m. at 4918 Elm St., Bethesda, with free ice cream for all and swag for the first 50 in line.

The Old Town Alexandria scoop shop grand opening is on the same day from 7-11 p.m. at 102 S Patrick St., Alexandria, VA, 22314. Free ice cream for all and swag for the first 50 in line, plus, Jeni herself will be there.

While we wait for those, here are some pictures of the opening of the DC shop.

The Line Outside Snaked Around the Corner to U St.

The Line Outside Snaked Around the Corner to U St.

Inside, There Was Celebration

Inside, There Was Celebration

There's a Nice Place to Sit Upstairs

There’s a Nice Place to Sit Upstairs

It's Jeni! (On the Right)

It’s Jeni! (Center)

What It's All About

What It’s All About

Full details of next week’s two openings are here.

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Almost As Good As Dublin: Guinness Over The Moon Milk Stout and Stock Ale Aged in Bulleit Bourbon Barrels

NOTE: I had almost finished this article about Milk Stout when I got a second box-full o’goodness from Guinness: a sample of their new Stock Ale.  I decided to go with reviewing each of them separately, but serially.

 NOTE ALSO: They asked me to include #GIFTEDBYGUINNESS in this article.

Milk Stout

Was spending two weeks in Dublin a mistake?  Did it spoil me for anything less than super-fresh draft Guinness on every street corner?  Even in the Dublin Convention Center, we could relax with a pint (or a “glass,” which is what you ask for if, like me, that’s your limit: a half-pint).

I’d have to say probably yes, if I didn’t get a care package from our good friends at the Baltimore Guinness Open Gate Brewery in September.  They have released a new Milk Stout that drinks almost as smoothly as fresh Guinness classic (or at least my taste memory of it from a few months ago).

Milk Stout in Box

It is brewed with lactose, which results in a creaminess from milk sugar.  It doesn’t taste milky, though – there are hints of chocolate and coffee (although almost any stout boasts those taste notes), and it goes down very nicely if you are a hop-hater like me.  And it does have a very nice head, which Guinness considers a feature, not a bug.  I concur.

Quite a Head!

Quite a Head!

The press material suggests that it would make a good pairing with sweet desserts.  To reinforce this notion, they included two chocolate bars in the box – I assume they were there as publicity accessories, as they are not stout-flavored.  Still appreciated, as I think just as highly of chocolate as I do stout!

 

Milk Stout is available locally in stores and in the brewery, and nationally for a limited time.  It’s sold in six packs of 12 oz cans for a suggested price of $10.99.

Stock Ale

Barely a month after the Milk Stout box, here comes another sample!  This time it has a more elaborately-produced and somehow more “serious” aspect.  If the milk stout had a whiff of sweet/dessert airy frivolity to it, this Stock Ale is Serious Production Value Product.  (It’s also priced at about twice as much as the Milk Stout, which may be why there were only two bottles in that box.)

Only Two!

Only Two!

But let me tell you, this stuff is worth it.  It’s fabulous, and I’m not saying that just because they sent me a free sample.  If I can’t afford a ticket to Dublin again soon, I can compensate for it with this Stock Ale.

We drank it with roast beef sandwiches, which struck us as an appropriate pairing.  And it was!

The brewing method is an example of the synergy of a large parent company owning many boozy brands.  Diageo’s Bulleit Bourbon barrels are key to both the separately aged and brewed Diageo’s Guinness Barleywine and Imperial Stout, which are blended together to produce the Stock Ale.

It’s described as a “hearty and full-bodied beer” in the Guinness release, (I agree) with “notes of nutty chocolate, raisins, roasted barley and sweet dark fruit… aromas of vanilla, coffee, stone fruit and ripe berries.” These flavor lists generally make me feel a little inadequate as a taster.  I found a whiff of berries, and the brew to me is very chocolate-forward.  Not that that’s a bad thing.

It’s also 10% ABV, which I certainly felt after consuming just one.  As a person with a very low tolerance (see my limit above), I was glad I hadn’t planned anything other than relaxing after drinking!

 

Guinness Stock Ale Aged in Bulleit Bourbon Barrels is available on tap at the Guinness Open Gate Brewery in Baltimore and can be found on shelves at specialty beer stores across the U.S. in 4-packs of 11.2 oz bottles for a limited time beginning November 15th for a suggested retail price of $19.99.

 

 

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Mighty Vegetables: Review of Vegetables Unleashed by Jose Andres and Matt Goulding

When will Jose Andres win the Nobel Peace Prize?  He certainly deserves one.  Not only does he personally rush to the rescue at global disasters, feeding and giving comfort to thousands, but he advocates for healthy diets and food waste reduction, runs restaurants, and authors cookbooks.  And, in his spare time, shops for his family at his local farmers market.

At his book-tour appearance at Politics and Prose, Chef Jose waxed passionate about fruits and vegetables.  I paraphrase:  “They provide a continuous orgasm of taste in your mouth, while meat is only good the first few seconds of the first bite, then it become tedious to chew and swallow!”

Chef Jose Greets the Crowd

Chef Jose Greets the Crowd

And Then Takes a Selfie

And Then Takes a Selfie

He Signs After His Talk

He Signs After His Talk

I had more trouble reviewing this cookbook than with most.  At some point, I had to stop cooking and start writing, or I could abandon all hope of getting this review written in a timely manner.  There are so many recipes that tempt the cook!  Many of them call out, “Cook me now!”

I was afraid this might be another “cheffy” book, which would be full of beautiful food and dishes no home cook could hope to replicate; and, to be honest, there are some recipes which sound rather complex or use exotic ingredients, but there are also many that are more accessible.  There are also examples of several recipes that use the same main ingredient in a progression of ways, from simple to more involved (see: Brussels sprouts).

But the best thing about this book is Chef Jose himself.  His personality shines from the pages, as he doesn’t take himself or the recipes too seriously (but he does care deeply about providing good food for all the world, livelihoods for farmers, and reducing food waste – all of which the book makes clear).

And about the recipes? Well-written, easy to follow, all avoid the DOF (Dreaded Overleaf Fallacy), although there are some nested ones (those that incorporate recipes from elsewhere in the book).  There’s a mix of traditional Spanish dishes (some with veggie-centric twists) and quirky, Jose-specific variations and inventions.

I had to try the “Compost Potatoes,” which garnered a lot of publicity around the book’s publication, but turned out to be potatoes simply roasted in spent coffee grounds.  It’s an example of a brain wave from Chef Jose.  I added carrots because I had them.  Arranging your vegetable trimmings (carrot tops, etc.) around the roasting pan may make you feel good about using scraps, but they don’t contribute much to the taste.  Nestling the vegetables in coffee imparted to them a faint, not unpleasant, caffeine-reminiscent aroma and flavor.

Roasted Compost Veggies

Roasted Compost Veggies

Compost Veggies, Plated with Sauce

Compost Veggies, Plated with Sauce

By contrast, the adaptation of a traditional Catalan dessert, “Cabello de Angel (Spaghetti Squash Waffles),” was a surprise and a delight.  First, one makes preserves from spaghetti squash.  This involves cooking the squash with sugar, and results in not so much a jam as a sweetened (but not cloying, thanks to the addition of lemon juice) mass of strands somewhat resembling golden “angel” hair.  Then, one fills waffles fashioned from rolled-out frozen puff pastry with the preserves and (not without imagining a holy mess of possible leakage) cooks them in a waffle iron.

And they are delicious!  I would never have envisioned using puff pastry in this manner, but it works a treat.  Crispy on the outside, melting and sweetly confounding on the inside.  They reheat well, too.  (Go easy on the recommended confectioner’s sugar topping; I just sprinkled a little turbinado sugar on top and they were plenty sweet enough.)  This would be a fabulous brunch dish.

Spaghetti Squash Waffles

Spaghetti Squash Waffles

There’s a recipe for hash browns cooked in a waffle iron as well; a result of much experimentation in Chef Jose’s developmental kitchen in downtown Washington, D.C.

Here’s another winner: “Little Gems with Warm Garlic Dressing.”  The little gem lettuces are the base for this classic tapas dish, but many vegetables and salads could benefit from the excellent garlicky, anchovy-rich, pimenton-enhanced dressing.  It’s one of the best I’ve tasted.

A Gem of a Salad Dressing

A Gem of a Salad Dressing

There are so many other recipes to try!  Just open the book at random and one will present itself.  Those hash brown waffles; a method to produce cryo-concentrated carrot juice accessible to the home cook (take that, modernists); “Dancing Eggplant” (!) calls for topping the eggplant with shaved bonito, recalling okonomiyaki garnish.

Many of the recipes in Vegetable Unleashed began as dishes in one or another of Chef Jose’s many restaurants, but have been tweaked for adventurous home cooks.  I recommend using it to unleash some vegetables in your kitchen.

 

Vegetables Unleashed by Jose Andres and Matt Goulding, Harper Collins, New York, 2019.

 

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Sheroes and A Hero at the National Book Festival

The Saturday morning of Labor Day weekend, on stage at the Convention Center, Justice Ruth Bader Ginsburg appeared alive and well, followed by Jose Andres in conversation with Diane Rehm.  The rest of the day was fun, but anticlimactic.   What could top opening acts like those two?

About 1/3 of the audience for Ruth Bader Ginsburg

About 1/3 of the audience for Ruth Bader Ginsburg

Nina Totenberg, Usher, Ruth Bader Ginsberg, Librarian of Congress Carla Hayden

Nina Totenberg, Usher, Ruth Bader Ginsberg, Librarian of Congress Carla Hayden

The estimate for the number of fans in the hall for Justice Ginsburg (affectionately known as (The Notorious) RBG) was somewhere between four to five thousand.  Along with her two book collaborators, she spoke to Nina Totenberg of NPR about the highlights of her long and long-from-over career, inshallah.  “I am alive, and on my way to being very well,” she declared, to overwhelming approval.  A group of students had camped out at 3 a.m. to get seats.  Many women and girls were wearing their sentiments on their shirts.

Molly and Clair MacDonald and Their Mother

Molly and Clair MacDonald and Their Mother

She just had a round of radiation for recurring cancer, but recalled that she had gone parasailing in her 70’s: “like Icarus, but we didn’t get too close to the sun.”

Nina, RBG; Biographers Mary Hartnett and Wendy Williams

Nina, RBG; Biographers Mary Hartnett and Wendy Williams

Ms. Totenberg engaged RBG in animated and affectionate conversation.  Early in her career, she struck a modest blow for equality in marriage.  When her son misbehaved in school, the administration would call her.  Finally, she told them, “This child has two parents,” and firmly insisted they alternate calling her husband as well.  The number of calls dropped dramatically, when they had to disturb a man at work!

And the culinary connection?  Two cookbooks for RBG, one a collection of her late husband’s recipes (Chef Supreme: Martin Ginsburg), and another which mixes history with recipes, Table for 9, by Clare Cushman with a foreword by Justice Ginsburg.  Both are published by the Supreme Court Historical Society.  Jose Andres also has a new one:  Vegetables Unleashed: A Cookbook.

Speaking of, his first words on stage were to apologize for not signing autographs after his talk.  He was leaving immediately to head up hurricane relief.  “We can recover out of anything, but we leave the politics out of it.”  If only our politicians would listen to him.

Chef Jose and Diane Rehm

Chef Jose and Diane Rehm

Chef Jose described how he made meals for disaster victims by listening to what they wanted to eat.  Many sandwiches were made for immediate relief, but hot meals mean even more to those without the means to cook.  The government drops MRE’s and think they have done the job.  Have you ever tried one of those?  “Don’t look for alien life on Jupiter – it’s right here on Earth!”

Diane asked him about his new cookbook.  It’s a follow-up to his vegetable-forward lunch spot, Beefsteak (the tomato, not the cow: such a great semantic trompe l’oeil).  He spoke to the amount of food waste in our agricultural and distribution system.  “Be nice to the ugly vegetables – they are often the best ones.  Bring them into your home – be nice to them!”  And then, presumably, eat them.

Jose Describes a Beefsteak Tomato Sandwich

Jose Describes a Beefsteak Tomato Sandwich

His opinion of the Farm Bill echoes that of many of the small farmers and chefs speaking out about it, that its support of commodity crops over vegetables (which the Bill calls “specialty crops,” a semantic crime in itself), is a force driving the cost of healthy food higher than processed, junk food.   Chef Jose is a human dynamo seeking to right many food- and hunger-related wrongs at once.  I hope he can keep it up for a long time to come.

Meanwhile, in another part of the Convention Center, the Parade of the States held a lovely surprise for a food writer.  This collection of booths, full of librarians representing each state in the country, is always great fun.  Besides browsing the assortment of tchotchkes they bring for the kids (so I can be assured of getting my yearly allotment of bookmarks), I love engaging librarians from all over the country to learn how they are advancing the cause of literacy.

They call their initiative “Route 1 Reads Cookbooks.”  A collaboration of 16 states and the District of Columbia, this exclusive club’s members consist of every state Route 1 runs through.  Each highlights one cookbook indicative of their state.  They range from Maine’s The Lost Kitchen Cookbook, a book originating from a restaurant so exclusive that reservations are open for only two weeks a year by postcard, to New York’s  Storied Bars of New York, Where Literary Luminaries Go to Drink, a two-fer if ever there was one.  I had lots of fun going from booth to booth, meeting librarians and collecting postcards with recipes from each state.

Route 1 Reads Massachusetts

Route 1 Reads Massachusetts

Route 1 Reads Delaware

Route 1 Reads Delaware

Route 1 Reads New Hampshire

Route 1 Reads New Hampshire

Route 1 Reads New Jersey

Route 1 Reads Virginia

Also in the exhibit area, the Library of Congress Manuscript Division had a few culinary items among their displays: a postcard with a reproduction of Rosa Park’s “Recipe for featherlight pancakes,” which appears to be written on the back of an envelope; and a copy of Thomas Jefferson’s drawing of a macaroni machine and instructions for making pasta.

Rosa's Recipe

Rosa’s Recipe

Tomas Jefferson's Macaroni Notes

Thomas Jefferson’s Macaroni Notes

And one more culinary marker: a nitro-brewed coffee dispenser, which charged by the ounce.  It seemed popular.  Was it a curiosity, or an indicator of cultural shift?

Cool Nitro Brew

Cool Nitro Brew

 

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Maryland Royalty and Other Great Things: The 2018 Governor’s Buy-Local Cookout

With all the buzz about the British royal family (now with a healthy injection of New World genes), I thought it would be appropriate to start my account of the latest Governor’s Buy-Local Cookout with our very own Maryland royalty.  Over the last several years, various Queens and Princesses have graced the occasion with their presence; at this event I saw two, each representing a mouthwatering constituency in our great state.  One of them even had an entourage.

The Dairy Princess and the Future Farmers of America

Lynne Thomas, the Dairy Princess, and the Future Farmers of America

Gabby Hastings, the Watermelon Queen

Gabby Hastings, the Watermelon Queen

And in a more democratic vein, the Governor and First Lady of Maryland were present and fully engaged.  A big sign directed everyone to the tent where “Yumi Cooks!” and both she and the Governor greeted, shook hands and posed for pictures throughout the event.

Yumi Cooks!

Yumi Cooks!

Yumi Poses at the Alcoholic Beverage Tent

Yumi Poses at the Alcoholic Beverage Tent

Governor Hogan by the Goat Tacos

Governor Hogan (L) by the Goat Tacos

The annual Proclamation Presentation was attended by not only Maryland Agriculture Secretary Joe Bartenfelder, but Danielle, a Hogan granddaughter.

The Proclamation Ceremony

The Proclamation Presentation

Sue Langley was back with lessons on honey and honeybees, and tastings of different kinds of honey.  I was glad to hear that the hives on the Government House grounds are still doing well.

Sue Langley with Honey

Sue Langley with Honey Samples

The food, all of it sourced from Maryland farms and waters, and cooked by Maryland chefs, was a showcase of delicious and imaginative creations.  From blue catfish, oysters, and crabs, to pork and lamb, the delectable protein choices were accompanied by the best of local fruits, vegetables, and dairy products.  Not to mention the alcoholic beverages!  The number of Maryland breweries, distilleries, wineries and cideries seem to be increasing every year.

Ahoy! The Oyster Boat!

Ahoy! The Oyster Boat!

More Oysters - Smoked Ones

More Oysters – Smoked Ones

Excellent Soft-Shelled Crabs

Excellent Soft-Shelled Crabs

The Pork Belly Display

The Pork Belly Display

Baby Back Ribs

Baby Back Ribs

Every year, the Honest Tea selection is a highlight of the soft drinks tent – another Maryland-grown product.  And ice cream for dessert!

One of Each Flavor, Please!

One of Each Flavor, Please!

A different collection of products and chefs are selected each year by the Maryland Department of Agriculture to represent the wide range of ingredients and delicious ways to prepare them available in our small but mighty state.  They publish a cookbook with all the recipes, which you can find here.

 

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News Flash: Redbud Flowers Are Edible, And So Are Hon Tsai Tai

Yes, I have recently learned that the redbud tree’s flowers, like many others, can safely be consumed.  I’ve been meaning for a few years now to try my hand at pickling cherry blossoms, but have been unable to source flowers of the big, double Kwanzan variety  that I’m sure have remained unsprayed.  Since I have several pristine redbud trees in my back yard, I decided to try those this spring to assuage my flower-eating impulses.

Redbud Trees in Bloom

Redbud Trees in Bloom

I thought it would be easy to pick a few handfuls of flowers from my trees, but when I went out to my yard with basket in hand, I realized my trees were too tall to access even the lower branches easily.  I did manage to stand on tiptoe and pull down some of the lowest ones.  It’s a good thing I wasn’t planning to harvest a lot of flowers!

As the blossoms can be eaten raw, I planned to put them in a salad.  I went around my yard and gathered up some early greens as well.  Lemon balm, mizuna, and lamb’s quarters all supplemented a mix of lettuces from the farmers market to produce a tasty blend.

Salad Raw Materials

Salad Raw Materials

The Finished Product

The Finished Product

The flowers contributed a slightly lemony taste, complementing the lemon balm nicely, but were nothing to rave about.  They did give the salad a very nice color accent, and would certainly make an impression at a dinner party (especially on your non-foraging friends), but I wouldn’t rank them up there with the best backyard foods I’ve eaten.

Speaking of, it’s been a disappointing year for pokeweed.  I think the natural succession of second-growth trees have shaded out my stands of poke that have been so reliable for several years now; or maybe it’s the result of the second rainy spring in a row.  It’s too early to tell about the berry harvest.  Here’s hoping for a good one!

Unlike the thin crop of the backyard, the pickin’s at the Olney Farmers Market have been anything but slim.  Although our season’s opening day proved windy, chilly and wet, the farmers brought a bumper crop of spring greens and other goodies.  Common Root Farm had an especially beguiling vegetable: Hon Tsai Tai, Flowering Asian Broccoli.

Hon Tsai Tai

Hon Tsai Tai

I used it in a recipe for ricotta dumplings with spring veggies from the New York Times, modified to fit the mix I had on hand.  The greens were just briefly sauteed in butter and olive oil, then topped with Parmesan, and flowers.  Delicious!

Dumplings, Greens, and Cheese

Dumplings, Greens, and Cheese

I’m looking forward to a long season of good eating.  Fingers crossed that it’s not as wet as last year.

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Tintoretto! Tentacles! What Do These Things Have in Common?

Why, the National Gallery of Art, of course.  Specifically, the impressive new exhibit of Jacopo Tintoretto’s art, and the new tie-in menu at the Garden Café.

A Rather Fetching Sign Outside the Building

A Rather Fetching Sign Outside the Building

 

The show, on view through July 7, includes almost 50 paintings and some sketches, as well as a little suspended mixed-media surprise.

Mr. Echols Under the Wax Angel

Mr. Echols Under the Wax Angel

And, as if one exhibition around this relatively obscure Renaissance master is not enough to lure you downtown, there are two other related attractions: one of Venetian Prints and another of Drawings, both creating dialogs with the artifacts of the main event.

And what a fine collection of paintings that is!  At the press preview, among the dignitaries present (including the new NGA Director, the Italian Ambassador and the Mayor of Venice), the two curators of the exhibit spoke on why Tintoretto is not better-known in the New World.  Perhaps the large scale of many of his works, combined with the problem of attribution (which curators are working hard to resolve), are why he is not as renowned as other Renaissance painters.

Press Welcome, L to R: Ambassador Armando Varricchio, Director Kaywin Feldman, Curators Robert Echols and Frederick Ilchman

Press Welcome, L to R: Ambassador Armando Varricchio, Director Kaywin Feldman, Curators Robert Echols and Frederick Ilchman

The Mayor of Venice, Luigi Brugnaro, Speaks with the Help of His Translator

The Mayor of Venice, Luigi Brugnaro, Speaks with the Help of His Translator

I admit to not being as aware of Tintoretto as of Da Vinci, Michelangelo, and others, but Venice is justly proud of their native son.  This exhibition has been organized to celebrate the 500th anniversary of his birth.  The press tour, as presented by Frederick Ilchman and Robert Echols, started with an early self-portrait, took us through the landscapes, portraits, historical and allegorical paintings, and ended with a wonderfully contrasting late self-portrait.

Mr. Echols and Mr. Tintoretto

Mr. Echols and Mr. Tintoretto

Mr. Ilchman Speaks to St. George and a Rather Titillating Maiden Riding the Dead Dragon

Mr. Ilchman Speaks to St. George and a Rather Titillating Maiden Riding the Dead Dragon

Mr. Ilchman Among the Portraits

Mr. Ilchman Among the Portraits

And the Last Selfie, I Mean, Self-Portrait

And the Last Selfie, I Mean, Self-Portrait

Along the way, one of those large-scale works caught my eye.  The Last Supper is remarkable for three things: the poses of the disciples, caught in the moment of dismayed surprise as Christ foretells his betrayal by one of them; the figure in the lower left corner, thought to be a portrait of the painter’s daughter; and (and this is my personal sense of remarkable, not any art-historical sensibility),  the plates of distinctive-looking rolls on the table.

Very Large Last Supper

Very Large Last Supper

Close-Up of Rosetta Rolls

Close-Up of Rosette Rolls

According to Leslie Contarini, a member of the Venetian delegation, these are traditional Venetian rosette rolls.  She cautioned that they are best consumed fresh.  It’s a homey detail, but fits the overall tone of the painting.

And now to my favorite part: the new lunch and brunch menus at the Garden Café, designed to extend your Venetian experience.  This is the third menu that the Chef Chris Curtis, of the Constellation Culinary Group, has styled to match an NGA exhibit, and a highly successful and delicious evocation it is.  The standout dish is grilled octopus, the star of a seafood-heavy lineup.

General Manager Aaron Beaver and the Tasting Table

General Manager Aaron Beaver and the Tasting Table

View of the Garden Cafe

View of the Garden Cafe

In company with a cured-fish appetizer over grilled polenta and salmon with pine-nut sauce (with a chicken piccata for the pesce-averse),  the octopus and cannellini bean salad evoke Venice as well as any painted view of the canals.  Chef Chris told us that it was his favorite dish to cook, even though (or maybe especially) it must be timed just right: first seared on the plancha, then braised for one hour and 10 minutes “exactly,” then finished on the grill.

Tentacles!

Tentacles!

Other elements of the menu include baccala mantecato (a classic Venetian dish), a spread made from dried cod which Chef Chris adapted with crème fraiche;, and the spring pea salad, as a tribute to the season.  Desserts include a Morello cherry tart with whipped ricotta and hazelnuts, and tiramisu with espresso mascarpone.  O heaven!

Dessert

Dessert

Go see the Tintorettos and enjoy the Garden Café menu, then close your eyes and imagine you can hear the calls of the gondoliers.  It shouldn’t be too hard.

Tintoretto: Artist of Renaissance Venice West Building, National Gallery of Art, daily through July 7.

 

 

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As One Store Closes, Another Store Opens: The New Olney Giant

In the year of our lord 1972, a bright, shiny new supermarket opened in Olney, a sleepy suburb about midway between Baltimore and Washington, D.C.  There weren’t many food shopping options here then; Giant was a brave, lonely pioneer (although joined by a Safeway in 1978).  And, as the population and shopping choices have increased over the years, the Giant is upping its game.

The Sign on the Wall of the New Store

The Sign on the Wall of the New Store

Giant now occupies the Shopper’s Food Warehouse space in the shopping center kitty-corner to the old building.  The change happened overnight, as planned.  Some patrons weren’t even aware of the switch until they showed up at the old store Friday morning and were directed across the street.

The press walk-through on the Thursday revealed a store not quite ready for prime time, but our Sherpa, Daniel Wolk, promised it would be ready by opening time Friday (6 a.m.)

Checkout Aisles

Checkout Aisles

Empty Pharmacy Shelves

Empty Pharmacy Shelves

Shelves and Signs

Shelves and Signs

The pharmacy presented a particularly thorny situation.  As Christine Musser, the pharmacy district manager, and Yosef Wondwossen, the store pharmacy manager, told me, transporting their inventory of drugs worth more than $500,000 across the street required specially-trained, HIPAA-certified personnel.  Yet, it was done in one night.

Returning for the ribbon-cutting on Friday morning, we found a fully fitted, bustling store complete with cheerful employees eager to show off each department’s merchandise.

Pizza Samples

Pizza Samples

Hot Bar Samples

Hot Bar Samples

Rushelle of the Bakery Department, Rockin' Her Union Button

Rushelle of the Bakery Department, Rockin’ Her Union Button

There were also many representatives of products and product lines the store is stocking.

Local Business Soupergirls Sampling Their Wares

Local Business Soupergirls Sampling Their Wares

Dave Noll Represents Brookwood Farms BBQ from North Carolina

Dave Noll Represents Brookwood Farms BBQ from North Carolina

Another Local Touch! Mambo Sauce!

Another Local Touch! Mambo Sauce!

Gloria Hands Out Boars Head Ham Samples

Gloria Hands Out Boars Head Ham Samples

And what an event that ribbon-cutting was!  Dave Johnson, longtime Washington sports announcer, acted as Master of Ceremonies.  He brought along the Wizards mascot, G-Wiz, who did what mascots do.  Serena Page sang the National Anthem.

Dave Johnson and G-Wiz

Dave Johnson and G-Wiz

Serena Sings

Serena Sings

There were remarks by Gordon Reid, the President of Giant Food.  I’d noticed many other folks walking the aisles in business dress without shopping carts.  An informant told me there were about 60 executives from the Giant company present. Very impressive.

Steven Green, the store manager, also spoke.  Then he introduced all the store department managers for a group photo.

Gordon Reid, Giant President

Gordon Reid, Giant President

Steven Green, Giant Store Manager

Steven Green, Giant Store Manager

And All the Managers!

And All the Managers!

There were presentations of large checks to local institutions: Manna Food Center, For 3 Sisters (dedicated to fighting breast cancer and helping survivors), the Sandy Spring Volunteer Fire Department, and the Montgomery County Police Department.

Large Check, and the Amount is Big, Too

Large Check, and the Amount is Big, Too

Then the ribbon was actually cut, with the help of Liz Bryant, a 47-year Giant employee.  She helped open the original Olney store and is still going strong.

Liz Cuts the Ribbon

Liz Cuts the Ribbon

With over 40,000 square feet of selling space, the new store is 14,000 square feet bigger than the old one. It’s brighter, too, courtesy of l.e.d. lighting, not only at ceiling-level but also under the shelves.  There are many tall cold cases, which allow food to be stored “behind doors” in energy-efficient spaces instead of keeping the whole store at the bone-chilling temperatures many other supermarkets maintain.

A View of the Store

A View of the Store, Cold Cases on Left

Another View

Another View

There is more gourmet cheese, a bigger kosher section, and an expanded prepared food department.  There are more store-brand items (including “Nature’s Promise,” their line of organic and “free-from” products).  There’s a PNC Bank branch, and a full-service pharmacy.  There are all the departments you’d expect to find, and also a sushi chef, and a kombucha fountain.

I tried hard not to judge, even though I have not been able to wrap my taste buds around  kombucha.  The Wild Kombucha is supplied by Sergio Malarin, a perfectly charming and earnest guy from Baltimore, and you can get it by the growler, right next to the Coca-Cola dispenser.

Sergio and Debbie at the Kombucha Dispenser

Sergio and Debbie at the Kombucha Dispenser

Now You're Talking! Zin Offers Sushi Samples

Now You’re Talking! Zin Offers Sushi Samples

And Speaking of Healthy, Free Fruit for Kids Instead of Cookies

And Speaking of Healthy, Free Fruit for Kids Instead of Cookies

Giant employs a flying squad of nutritionists, who split their time among several stores in each territory.  The Olney store is under the wing of Melanie Berdyck, who oversees a program of in-store classes and extensive online advice on topics such as eating on a budget, debunking myths, and evidence-based health information.

I met two guys from the produce department, and we had a nice conversation about exotic vegetables.  When I asked them about Romanesco cauliflower, they pointed me to one of the full-wall displays of crucifers.  And there it was!  I was one happy shopper.

De'Ante McMillian and Robert Shockley of the Produce Department

De’Ante McMillian and Robert Shockley of the Produce Department

The Great Wall of Vegetables

The Great Wall of Vegetables

My Market Basket: Ginger, Romanesco, Jicama

My Market Basket: Ginger, Romanesco, Jicama

And there’s a Starbucks. Yes, folks, Olney is now a five-Starbucks town.  Who’s a sleepy suburb now?

 

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