Minimal-Maximal: The Expanded Glenstone Museum Opening October 4 in North Potomac, Maryland

When I saw advance pictures of the new pavilions at Glenstone, opening next week in North Potomac, Maryland, I thought, “It looks like the Getty without the views.”  After a press visit, I must admit that my impression was misinformed.

The Getty Museum in Los Angeles perches on a hill, affording vistas out over the valley which are a big part of the experience; so big, in fact, that on both of my two visits there, I spent most of the time outside.  The collections are displayed in relatively dark, uninviting spaces, compared to the massing of buildings, gardens, and setting of the exterior.  Glenstone could not be more divergent.

One suspects, immediately upon entering the “parking grove,” that Glenstone has taken great pains to provide a unique visitor experience, and they have certainly succeeded in doing so.  Every detail has been considered, from the gravel, low walls and rounded black stones defining parking spaces (no painted stripes on asphalt here), to the 10-minute walk to the main pavilions – and that’s just for starters.

First Sight of the Pavilions from Arrival Hall

First Sight of the Pavilions from Arrival Hall

The Split Rocker Sculpture Looms from Over the Hill

The Split Rocker Sculpture Looms from Over the Hill

Outside the Pavilions

Outside the Pavilions

The minimalism of the architecture is apparent from the visitor’s center to the main pavilions (which is revealed to be one interconnected building, but is always referred to in the plural – a little semantically unsettling).  Again, every detail has been considered, from the various “reveals” as the visitor progresses through the exhibit rooms to the hiding of electrical outlets.

Water Court from Inside the Pavilions

Water Court from Inside the Pavilions

Water Court from Inside the Pavilions - Another View

Water Court from Inside the Pavilions – Another View

The Big Phrygian Sculpture by Martin Puryear

The Big Phrygian Sculpture by Martin Puryear, and Guide in Minimalist Gray

 

Integration of the built environment with nature has been the lodestone of the enterprise from the project’s inception.  Building and landscape architects worked closely with the founders, Emily and Mitchell Rales, to realize the interpenetration of every aspect: buildings, setting, artworks, and consideration of the total visitor experience.  To that end, a crew of human guides eagerly engage visitors to answer questions and provide a more elevated level of involvement than merely reading wall text would (one will search the walls in vain for text other than – there’s that word again – the minimal identification data).

Emily Rales

Emily Rales

Mitchell Rales

Mitchell Rales

 

And what art it is!  The new museum was built to display more of the Rales’ Modern and contemporary artworks than the older, smaller Gallery could exhibit, and does it ever.  A tour of the main room of the pavilions reveals work by Duchamp, Warhol, Stella, Giacometti, and many other world-famous artists.   The galleries are flooded with natural light (even on a cloudy day), and visual access to the central water court punctuates and heightens the experience.

Hanging Ruth Asawa Woven Basketry Works

Hanging Ruth Asawa Woven Basketry Works

Pictures Being Taken

Pictures Being Taken

And my favorite room?  That would have to be the one that one of the guides told me they refer to informally as “the kitchen.”  It includes the Dieter Roth piece “Herd (Stove),” and a Yayoi Kusama: “Accumulation on Cabinet No. 1,” which looks to me like sweet potatoes and other food-related elements arrayed around a pie safe.

Food-Related Kusama

Food-Related Kusama

Outside, sculptures are integrated into the landscape, accessed from walking trails which are engineered to provide a contemplative, holistic experience.

Zigzag Walkway Over Wetlands

Zigzag Walkway Over Wetlands

And Art! Buried Sinks by Robert Gober

And Art! Buried Sinks by Robert Gober

Elijah and the Ball: Clay Houses Boulder by Andy Goldsworthy

Guide Elijah and Clay Houses Boulder by Andy Goldsworthy

Art by Nature: Flowers and Bumblebee

Art by Nature: Flowers and Bumblebee

Here I found and engaged Paul Tukey in conversation.  As the Chief Sustainability Officer, he oversees the 230 acres of managed landscape.  We happened to be standing in front of a grove of pawpaws.  The staff enjoyed the harvest just a week ago.  I’m afraid I didn’t hide my envy well.

Paul Tukey Amid the Pawpaws

Paul Tukey Amid the Pawpaws

One trail leads to the café.  There, we had lunch, served on hand-made dishes.  The chef, Brian Patterson, a former lead instructor at L’Academie de Cuisine in Gaithersburg, confirmed the impression that Charlotte had given me at breakfast (lemon-rosemary cream scones, local honey, Ceremony Coffee) that Glenstone was committed to locally-sourced, seasonal food.  He works with farmers and suppliers to provide meals that are delicious, but – and it must be a balancing act for him – do not become a “destination” in themselves, and unbalance the total museum experience.  Unlike other institutions around town, Glenstone does not think of the café as a profit center; Chef Brian couldn’t give me a definite price point, but assured me that the cost of lunch would be reasonable.

Cheerful Charlotte at Breakfast in the Arrival Hall

Cheerful Charlotte at Breakfast in the Arrival Hall

Cafe Interior

Cafe Interior

Lunch Menu, with Local Food Sources Listed

Lunch Menu, with Local Food Sources Listed

Soup, Sandwich, Salad, Quick Vegetable Pickles

Soup, Sandwich, Salad, Quick Vegetable Pickles

Chef Brian Patterson

Chef Brian Patterson

Inside-Outside-Intersection

Inside-Outside-Intersection

And here we ran into the limits of minimalism: filled with patrons, the din in the café was so loud as to make conversation uncomfortable.  Too many hard surfaces!  But, a small quibble.  There is also an outdoor patio for food service, which would be delightful in good weather.

Glenstone will be a terrific addition to our museum scene.  “Always free,” the Raleses promise.  The catch will be securing tickets, as a limited access policy is enforced, and the museum is open only Thursday through Sunday.  More information here.

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At Long Last, LEON: The British Chain Arrives in Washington

We have been honored with the first U.S. location of LEON, which is serving up dishes much more interesting than the phrase “British food” might conjure in American imaginations.  Think not about fish and chips, stodgy roasts, or mushy peas – the menu here is Mediterranean-diet influenced, with touches of Empire thrown in.

Their motto – “Naturally Fast Food”  – can mean anything and nothing, but I don’t hold it against them.  Their heart’s in the right place.  The menu relentlessly reinforces LEON’s focus on fresh, locally-sourced, feel-good-about-eating-it choices.  There’s a lot of kale, quinoa, and chicken; the waffle fries are baked.  Still, there is bacon and sausage on the breakfast menu (served until 11:00 a.m., and replete with avocado and smoked salmon as well as “The Full English Breakfast Box.”)

A British Empire Sense of Graphic Design

A British Empire Sense of Graphic Design

Noble Steed and Waffle Fries

Noble Steed and Waffle Fries

As the founder, John Vincent, follows a gluten-free diet, he has provided lots of opportunities to exercise that option, as well as accommodating low glycemic load, wheat-free, dairy-free, vegetarian and vegan eaters.  And yet, choosing any dish on the menu would not come with a sense of deprivation, but with a satisfying depth of taste and generously abundant serving sizes.

Leon Founder John Vincent

Leon Founder John Vincent

It’s impressive that such high-quality ingredients can be offered at such reasonable prices.  At the press preview, we tasted many of the menu items, and while I personally found some more appealing than others (I have to admit I’m tired of quinoa and over kale,) they ranged from above-average to excellent.

The menu is divided into categories based on format.  There are salads, wraps, little and big “hot boxes,” and sandwiches.  A certain set of ingredients gets recombined a lot, varying spices and flavorings to keep it interesting.  So, sweet potato falafel can be had as a wrap with (excellent) hummus, or as the star of the Lebanese mezze salad with hummus, roasted carrots and the aforementioned kale and quinoa salad, or as a big hot box.  All the hot boxes come with a generous amount of brown rice, which LEON cooks in a way that maximizes chewiness and flavor.  I don’t know how far LEON will let you customize your lunch, but personally, I would opt for more rice and less salad.

Chicken Sandwich, with Lamb Kofta

Chicken Sandwich, with Lamb Kofta

Lebanese Mezze Box

Lebanese Mezze Box

And Modest With It

And Modest With It

The Moroccan meatballs hot box is the most-ordered menu item, and with good reason.  The beef meatballs are served in tomato sauce, topped with garlic aioli.  Delicious!  The lamb kofte run a close second, as do the pesto chicken meatballs.  Vegetarians should head straight for the truffled portobello and halloumi sandwich.  Truffle sauce adds that element of umami, and the grilled halloumi cheese (an unfamiliar element in the States outside Greek restaurants, but here served with many items) contributes a layer of flavor and an intriguing, chewy texture.   I know it’s a cliché, but I had to say it: “I would order this even though I’m not a vegetarian!”

The chicken choices are all actual roasted thighs, not patties.  Kudos should be given to LEON for having the courage to offer only dark meat in this breast-loving country.  (Full disclosure: dark meat has always been my druthers.)

Very few of the choices are noticeably spicy, certainly not as served in their country of origin.  A question of cultural appropriation, damped down for our American tastes?  But many sauces are available to punch up the spice to your tolerance level.  As long as you don’t expect the “Brazilian black bean” hot box to taste like a real feijoada, you’ll be happy here.

Drinks are also curated to present an array of quirky, interesting choices.  There is kefir, kombucha, organic Tractor soda, teas and “steepers” (herb teas), and their own blend of organic, fair-trade coffee beans which they import and roast at Swing’s.

We got a peek into the kitchen, where many tasks are carried out simultaneously by well-trained workers.  The front of the house was also being managed by greeters and servers handling the opening-week line with professional panache.

Organization in the Kitchen

Organization in the Kitchen

Waiting to Order

Waiting to Order

The Serving Counter

The Serving Counter

 

The Greeter Manuel's Pins Represent Training Courses He's Passed

The Greeter Manuel’s Pins Represent Training Courses He’s Passed

If that opening enthusiasm is maintained (and I can’t think why it won’t be), LEON will have a long and happy reign serving tasty, healthy food to the occupants of downtown Washington.  And, may I suggest a few more branches in the ‘burbs?  Say, Montgomery County?

LEON, 1724 L St NW, Washington DC

 

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The Cheese Stands Alone: A Field Trip to Caputo Brothers Creamery

“Where’s the ricotta?”  Jimmy and Carl had got me hooked on this fresh cheese they brought to sell at the Olney Farmers and Artists Market, and then they cruelly stopped bringing it.  They gave me some runaround about it being inconvenient to pick it up, blah blah.  There was nothing to do but go straight to the source.

The source turned out to be Caputo Brothers Creamery, in Spring Grove, Pennsylvania.  It’s 60 miles due north of Olney, not far over the Mason-Dixon Line. North we drove, north to the Spring.  When we got there, we found not so much a bosky dell as an enormous pulp wood processing plant.  We persisted, though, and found Caputo Brothers on Main Street.

The Latest Model in Cheese

The Latest Model in Cheese

In a refurbished car dealership, David and Rynn Caputo have built an immaculate cheese processing establishment.  There is a large room full of shining, industrial vats and implements, a homey dining room, a small retail area, and a cheese aging cave for the small percentage of fresh cheese that doesn’t go out the door as ricotta and mozzarella.  They also sell “Capomozz,” cheese curds ready to stretch into mozzarella by home and professional cooks.  It doesn’t come fresher.

Shiny Cheesemaking  Equipment

Shiny Cheese Making Equipment

Skimming Off the Ricotta

Skimming Off the Ricotta

The Mozzarella Corner

The Mozzarella Corner

Rynn Shows Us the Aging Cave

Rynn Shows Us the Aging Cave

The cave is full of their Provola, Provola Piccante, and other aged cheese.  The Vecchio Ricotta Salata has won an American Cheese Society award.  Recently, the Slow Food organization asked them to produce a small batch of Rogusano, a traditional cheese now endangered in Italy.  It was such a success at the cheese show that they are now in the process of lining up the regulatory licenses for commercial production.

In addition to cheesemaking, the Caputos host Farm Table dinners and tours of Italy showcasing the traditional foods of various regions.  Information about these events and much more can be found at their website.

When I told them that their ricotta was the best I have ever tasted (albeit I have never been to Italy), Rynn knew why: Caputo is the only cheesemaker in this country that makes it the artisanal way, by culturing the milk instead of using vinegar to make it coagulate faster.  The process starts at 4 a.m. every day, and they were just finishing up as we watched, at around noon.  Rynn told me that in Italy, people know to show up at cheesemakers when the ricotta is just finished, and can be seen sitting in their cars eating bowls of the warm cheese.

Then Rynn and Mark Severn, the Director of Sales and Operations, brought out a little of each of their cheeses for us to sample.  They included some of that brand new ricotta, warm and all, and for me, it was one of the culinary highlights of August.  I envied those Italians!  All the other cheeses were excellent, as well, especially the ricotta salata.

Rynn and Mark Prepare the Tasting Samples

Rynn and Mark Prepare the Tasting Samples

And Proudly Posing

And Proudly Posing

The non-vinegar method of ricotta production is not the only thing that sets Caputo apart from other U.S. cheesemakers.  They source their milk from local farms, which must adhere to the Animal Welfare Approved Standard.  They even haul the milk from the farm to their factory in their own truck, to be sure that it’s kept pristine.  They make 200,000 pounds a year, and it’s so popular that every pound is pre-sold.

Late summer is a time of reduced milk production for cows, but the source material should be more plentiful soon, so here’s hoping that there will be a more reliable supply at OFAM in the near future!  I’m sure Jimmy and Carl are one of the smaller retail outlets Caputo deals with, but they have customers eager to consume that wonderful cheese.

 

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A Field Trip We Could Walk To: Sandy Spring Gardens

When I told Tom Farquhar where we lived, he said, “you could walk to the farm!”  Well, we could if it weren’t so hot (and we weren’t sure we could find the field back behind Lethbridge Court), so we drove there.   But we could indeed have walked overland.

Turn off New Hampshire Avenue, seek behind the strip shopping center, beyond the townhouses, to the cul-de-sac lined with expensive homes, named for the erstwhile 300-acre hay, beef and dairy farm that used to be there, then find the driveway that leads to the old barn still standing (newly restored by Mennonite craftsman), and you will find 10 acres farmed by Tom, Mark Mills of Chocolates and Tomatoes Farm, and rows of dryland rice being raised by Nazirahk Amen of Purple Mountain Organics.

Tom is one of the newest farmers selling his produce at the Olney Farmers and Artists Market, and Mark has been with us for a few years now, so this synergy fetched us out to the hyper-local, organic field enclosed by ½ mile of deer fence.  We were greeted by Mark and his dog, Crema (is that a cheffy name for a dog, or what?)  He was gathering some eggplant for one of his restaurant customers.  He called Tom, who was across the road, and he came driving right over in his big farm pickup truck.

Mark Mills with Crema, Out Standing in his Field

Mark Mills with Crema, Out Standing in his Field

Crema and Farmhouse

Crema Inside the Deer Fence

Buckwheat and McMansions

Buckwheat and McMansions

Tom in His Truck

Tom in His Truck

Tom has had an interesting life.  A music major in college, he went on to become headmaster of several private schools in this country and abroad, including Sidwell Friends School.  Of course, locals will recognize the name Farquhar as one of the old original families of Sandy Spring.  The oldest public middle school in the county is named after William Farquhar.

When it was the Lethbridge Farm, these 10 acres were conventionally farmed.  Most recently, though, it has lain fallow for four years, so when the current effort to turn it back into productive farmland began, Tom and the other partners had a jump on the five-year organic certification process.  Still, there’s a lot of work involved to raise organic crops.

When they started farming, the field was overgrown with thistles.  They plowed the thistles and sowed buckwheat, which grows fast and shades out weeds. Later, it will be turned under to provide a natural soil amendment.  Meanwhile, the white flowers attract bees, butterflies and other insects.

Across the road, a smaller plot is being cultivated.  Here, Tom showed us the beetles attacking his beans and the ladybugs he uses for defense against those dark forces.  I can vouch for the excellence of his tomatoes, corn and squash.

The Garden Plot Across the Road

The Garden Plot Across the Road

Farm Workers

Farm Workers

Bad Beetles and Good Ladybugs

Bad Beetles and Good Ladybugs

High Corn

High Corn

Tom is proud of his prize collection from the Montgomery County Fair.  His vegetables took 5 Firsts, 2 Seconds, and one Fifth Place.  Who says organic vegetables aren’t pretty?

He is raising a stand of Golden Cross Bantam, an heirloom variety of corn, by request of the members of the Sandy Spring Friends.   They want it to make corn pudding, a specialty from the 18th Century.  Somewhere in my house I have a reproduction of the corn grater invented in Sandy Spring for just this purpose, along with the historic recipe.

The last stop on the tour was inside the old barn.  Tom said there is documentation that dates it to at least 1810.The landowner is using it to display his collection of old tools and other artifacts he finds locally.

Restored Old Barn

Restored Old Barn

Workbench Inside Barn

Workbench Inside Barn

Arty Shot of Barn Interior

Arty Shot of Barn Interior

Another Interior, with Artifacts

Another Interior, with Artifacts

Come by the Farmers Market and buy some beautiful, local, organic produce!  Sandy Spring Gardens is there every other Sunday.  See you there!

 

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Save the Price of a Ticket to Dublin: Guinness Has Arrived in Maryland

Guinness Open Gate Brewery & Barrel House, Relay (or is it Halethorpe?) Now Open

Great news for beer drinkers near Baltimore!  Guinness has opened their one and only brewery in the New World.  They took an old distillery building complex and poured $90 million into it.  The result is a destination for the complete beer experience: taproom, outdoor event venue, gift shop, and soon, a restaurant.  Oh, and opportunities to tour the exhibit spaces focusing on the history of Guinness, and see the beermaking process.

We were invited to the press preview, a day before the public opening on August 3, and we accepted with alacrity.  There was a big crowd seated outside the building.  Not just press, but many folks instrumental to the process of bringing this project to reality, including local suppliers, politicians, bureaucrats, and fellow brewers.  Yes, Guinness has joined the Brewers Association of Maryland (BAM), a group of small, craft brewers.  Noblesse oblige?

The Famous Harp Symbol Comes to Baltimore

The Famous Harp Symbol Comes to Baltimore

A Traditional Cooper Shows How It Used To Be Done

A Traditional Cooper Shows How It Used To Be Done

View From the Brewery Steps

View From the Brewery Steps

The Signpost. Why Are All the Others in Africa?

The Signpost. Why Are All the Others (Except Dublin) in Africa?

It was very hot.  Still, the crowd was cheerful and attentive to the speechifying by everyone from Tom Day, the Chairman of Diageo (the parent company of Guinness) and Governor Hogan, down to the Ceremonial Firkin Tapping by the Guinness Maryland brewing team.

Gov. Hogan Presents Tom Day with a Proclamation

Gov. Hogan Presents Tom Day with a Proclamation

toast

Toast: Politicians and Beer Executives

BAM's President, Cindy Mullikin, Speaks

BAM’s President, Cindy Mullikin, Speaks

The Money Shot: The Ribbon Is Cut

The Money Shot: The Ribbon Is Cut

Then we were released to experience the reason for the occasion – tasting the product.

One passes through the lobby, with the gift shop and a few artifacts on view (along with cheerful employees),

Cheerful New Employees with Old Still

Cheerful New Employees with Old Still

You Can Buy Anything You Want with Guinness on It

You Can Buy Anything You Want with Guinness on It

and enters the taproom.  It’s filled with enthusiastic tipplers working their way through the 17 different pourables on offer.  And lunch.  Since the restaurant is not yet fully operational, some local purveyors were invited to provide their products.  They did us proud.

One Example of Pourable on Tap

One Example of Pourable on Tap

The Lunch Spread

The Lunch Spread

Oysters!  All I Could Eat!

Oysters! All I Could Eat!

Dessert - Bonbons Infused with Guinness

Dessert – Bonbons Infused with Guinness

Smile - And Pass the Finger Food

Smile – And Pass the Finger Food

Our Plates

Our Plates

The Kitchen Crew of the Almost-Open Restaurant, which will Have Many Dishes Incorporating Guinness

The Kitchen Crew of the Almost-Open Restaurant, which will Have Many Dishes Incorporating Guinness

As I have an unlimited appreciation for food, but not so much for beer, I expected to find the lunch more attractive than the alcohol.  I had to revise my opinions however, because, just as traditional Guinness Stout is not particularly hoppy, so many of the products offered followed that style.

I found the Belgian-style Apricot Pale Ale to be excellent, very fruit-forward and just barely hoppy.  Beer for people who don’t like beer, and I mean that in a good way, because I’m talking about myself.

My second-favorite was the White Ale, complex with herbs and citrus.  The tasting notes cite “grains of paradise, lemon peel and sweet and bitter orange peels…surprisingly low bitterness.”  Right in my wheelhouse.

I also enjoyed the Cherry Stout, and although I tasted less cherry than I had hoped for, it was still a good version of the iconic Guinness stout style.

Barry (the beer-lover in the family) enjoyed Crosslands Pale Ale, made with Maryland-grown malted barley and hops, which will be the signature brew of Maryland Guinness.  “Is there such a thing as terroir in a beer?” asks the description in the tasting sheet.  It goes on to answer itself, “yes.”  Time will tell.

The last thing to do was join one of the tours led by a cheerful guide with beer in hand.  Our group saw the historical artifacts from old Guinness brewing processes, and a display of advertising art over the years (including the iconic toucan and other animals in the “menagerie.”)

Tour, Accompanied by Beer

Tour, Accompanied by Beer

Toucans Suspended

Toucans Suspended

But the Unisex Can Hold More Than His Bellycan

But the Unisex Can Hold More Than His Bellycan

We learned about the plans for this site.  They expect 300,000 visitors a year.  It can only be good for this rather bleak corner of the south Baltimore area.  As the New Guinness Brewery website states, “Aside from making world-class, top quality beer and hosting curious visitors, a big aim of this project is to help develop and grow the local economy and enrich the local community.”  All the unfailingly cheerful employees I met that day, and all the visitors, would undoubtedly agree.

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Life’s Just A Bowl of Wineberries

Spring brought so much rain this year, I was worried that all the good foraging in my yard would be washed out.  The pokeweed harvest was thin, which was surprising, since the stems are normally so full of moisture one would think they would love wet weather.  And no edible mushrooms to speak of, either (again, go figure!)   But it’s been a pretty good year for wild berries.

First came the black raspberries, which were plentiful enough to enjoy on my morning cereal for a couple of weeks.

Ultra-local Black Raspberries for Breakfast

Ultra-local Black Raspberries for Breakfast

Then, in July, the wineberries started ripening.  I had to pick them every morning to stay ahead of the deer and birds, but then they were delicious with yogurt and granola.

Wineberries with Homemade Yogurt and (Store-bought) Granola

Wineberries with Homemade Yogurt and (Store-bought) Granola

Wineberries are an underappreciated fruit.  They’re too fragile to ship, more delicate even than raspberries, and very seedy, but they have a nice tang to complement their native sweetness.  They are considered invasive, but as far as I’m concerned, they are welcome in the untamed corners of my yard.

I was asked recently if they were for sale anywhere.  I’ve never seen them commercially, even in farmers markets.  Foraging is the only source, or hoping the birds will be kind and sow them for you.

Once, I was walking down a road near my house towards a newly-built development, marveling that the silver lining behind the farm field’s disappearance was an actual sidewalk for my walking pleasure, when I noticed that the road was lined, a few feet back from the verge, by a row of wineberry bushes.  I came back with a basket and began picking, when a woman stopped her car to tell me that she had seen men spraying there with herbicide the day before.  Paradise lost!   Moral: be careful where you pick.

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Who Eats, Who Dines, Who Tells Your Story – Review

The Hamilton Cookbook: Cooking, Eating, & Entertaining in Hamilton’s World by Laura Kumin

The Hamilton Cookbook

The Hamilton Cookbook

At the time of this writing, I have failed to win the ticket lottery to the Washington, DC production of Hamilton for about a week now.  This book may be the closest I, and so many others, will ever get to the room where it happens.  Still, for a historic food aficionado, it must suffice.

It’s hard to write a book about Alexander Hamilton’s eating habits.  Laura Kumin reveals that there is no direct historic evidence of any particular interest in food by the great man, including what he actually ate and drank, apart from some documented menus of dinners given by George Washington which Hamilton attended.  It took some sleuthing work to infer what his wife would have eaten as a girl in upstate New York, with her family’s Dutch heritage, which she might have instructed her cooks to prepare for her husband and children.  Ms. Kumin might also have found some recipes from Hamilton’s upbringing in the West Indies, adding a little spice to the otherwise rather stogy mid-Atlantic Coast diet of the time.

But only one “Dutch-style” recipe is included in the collection of 22, and one from the West Indies.  All are culled from British or North American sources, most from Hannah Glasse’s Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy, and Amelia Simmons’ American Cookery.  One exceptional gem reproduces Thomas Jefferson’s handwritten recipe for vanilla ice cream.  Ms. Kumin has interpreted these recipes for the modern reader, and reproduced photocopied pages from the source material on facing pages.

None of the recipes would scare off even the most timid of modern cooks.  Indeed, one need not be worried that any exotic ingredients or equipment is needed; Ms. Kumin goes so far as to rename old recipes with reference to modern appliances (“Toaster Oven English Rabbit,” “Slow Cooker Corned Beef.”)  There is one recipe which may have been prepared in Eliza Hamilton’s household, based on her family background: “Dutch-Style Red Cabbage,” from Glasse.

But, on the whole, she has done an admirable job rendering the recipes fit for modern palates.  For “Baked Whole Whitefish,” adapted from Glasse’s “To bake a Turbot,” for instance, she wisely reduces the whole large grated nutmeg called for to ¼ teaspoon.

Although sometimes she goes too far.  I cooked the Lamb Stew, adapted from Glasse’s “A Harrico of Mutton.”  It was delicious, and the modern recipe was very easy to follow.  A touch of mace gave it an exotic, unfamiliar but pleasing flavor.  My only quibble was that Ms. Kumin adapted the “Bundle of Sweet Herbs” in the original to 1 tablespoon of fresh thyme leaves or 1 teaspoon dried; and one bay leaf.  Surely we moderns can stand a little more herbal seasoning than that for three pounds of lamb!

Lamb Stew

Lamb Stew

All the recipes are simple enough to be contained on a single page, so no Dreaded Overleaf problem.  Cook them, and you may be young and scrappy, but you won’t be hungry.

 

 

The Hamilton Cookbook: Cooking, Eating, & Entertaining in Hamilton’s World by Laura Kumin, Post Hill Press, New York, 2017.

 

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Kids, Queens and Ice Cream: The Governor’s Buy-Local Cookout, 2017 Edition

Another terrific iteration of the summer’s showcase of local products!  There were some changes and some good old reliables at the 2017 Governor’s Buy-Local Cookout.  This year’s innovation: the invitation to present a dish was extended to include not just professional chefs, but culinary programs in local colleges.  The result was a welcome expansion of the menu to include imaginative, exotic dishes.

For instance, the team from University of Maryland Eastern Shore at the Universities at Shady Grove campus presented Tandoori Style Rabbit.

Tandoori Rabbit, with Chef Susan Callahan on right

Tandoori Rabbit, with Chef Susan Callahan on right

The First Lady of Maryland made a point of posing with as many teams as possible.  Here she is with Anne Arundel Community College’s crew.  One of the AACC bunch’s dishes was responsible for the Worst Pun of the Night Award.  It was fried oysters, so it was also delicious.

AACC Team, with Mrs. Yumi Hogan

AACC Team, with Mrs. Yumi Hogan

Edger Allan Po' Boys

Edger Allan Po’ Boys

Here’s another unusual entry from academia, this one from Bon Appetit Management,  which services lots of college food programs: Grilled Persian-style Kofta BBQ.

Persian BBQ

Persian BBQ

Then there was the contingent from the Future Farmers of America.  They weren’t cooking, but one got the feeling that our farms will be in good hands in times to come.

Future Farmers of America

Future Farmers of America

Mrs. Hogan served from the Government House booth.  In a change from bulgogi, there was chicken BBQ.

Mrs. Hogan Serves

Mrs. Hogan Serves

I notice I seem to have been picturing a lot of BBQ, but rest assured there were plenty of delectable seafood- and plant-based bites as well.  Of course, there was my favorite dessert, ice cream.

We All Scream

We All Scream

Three artisanal creameries were dishing their finest: Prigel Family Creamery, Keyes Creamery, and Kilby Cream.

Which leads right into the mention of the Maryland Dairy Princess.  Yes, these events always have some agricultural royalty hobnobbing with the proletariat, and this one was graced by both the Dairy Princess and the Mar-Del Watermelon Queen.  They both graciously posed for photos.

Maryland Dairy Princess

Maryland Dairy Princess

Mar-Del Watermelon Queen

Mar-Del Watermelon Queen

 

I noticed the Watermelon Queen was carrying the same style of clutch purse that last year’s WQ was carrying.  Is it an heirloom, passed down from Queen to Queen, I asked her?  No. Each Queen buys her own.

There were weather-appropriate handouts.

I am a Fan of These

I am a Fan of These

Governor Hogan proclaimed, together with the Secretary of Agriculture.  The band played. Folks schmoozed.

A Proclaimation

A Proclamation

The Band

The Band

Schmoozing While Eating

Schmoozing While Eating

Selfies were taken.

Garden Selfie

Garden Selfie

And More Selfies

And More Selfies

 

And there was dancing!  In the heat!  Ah, youth!

Humid Dancing

Humid Dancing

 

 

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She Deserves a Big Tip: Waitress, the Musical

Waitress at the National Theatre is the touring version of the Broadway musical, from the 2007 film of the same name.  As the play’s plot is identical to the movie’s, it’s no spoiler to reveal that this feel-good show has a happy ending.  Getting there is an exercise in wild mood swings, and since this is the story of the pregnancy of Jenna the waitress (Desi Oakley), that seems wholly appropriate.

Waitress in the Rain

Waitress in the Rain

The songs and music are jazz-tinged, some bluesy, none traditional “show tunes.”  The band, onstage throughout the play, is allowed to interact with the action.  This adds depth to the setting of a small-town Southern diner (the piano doubling as a pie stand).  The band members are free to move about the stage, and combinations of instrumentalists accompany the singers, matching the mood of each piece.  The singing is uniformly strong, with an outstanding performance by Charity Angel Dawson as Becky, a fellow waitress.

The play is full of clever bits of stage business, and the dancing is spirited – together with the interlocking sets and creative lighting, it’s a true visual feast, a match for the aural one.

Jenna’s pregnancy is unexpected and unwanted, trapping her in her roles as server in Joe’s Pie Diner and wife to the abusive Earl (Nick Bailey).  Her main pleasure in life is creating pies, with such metaphorical names as Betrayed-By-My-Eggs Pie and White-Knuckle-Cream Pie, each reflecting her frustrations and expectations of life in the moment of conception.   Her emotions are tangled up in sugary creation; her mother, also in an abusive relationship, taught her to bake as an escape from her own misery.

The audience’s strongest reaction is provoked by the arrival of Ogie (Jeremy Morse), another waitress’ boyfriend.  He ignites the stage with his exponentially-higher level of energy, stealing every scene he’s in.  It’s a shame he doesn’t appear until just before the intermission, but then, he contributes a great deal to keeping the show lively during the second act.

We watch as Jenna pins her hopes of leaving town and starting a new life to winning a pie contest.  She takes to hiding part of her wages (which she must daily turn over to Evil Earl) to finance her trip and entry fee.  She begins an affair with her gynecologist (leading to a sketchy visual of her legs akimbo, straddling a pie held by the good doctor – a metaphor too far!)  But Earl finds her stash, and the minute she enters a scene nine months pregnant with the contest still a week away, everyone can see where this plot is headed.  And sure enough, the baby comes before the Hope-Pinned-Upon Pie.

But, guess what?  One bonding look at her baby and Jenna finds the agency to tell the vile Earl to take a hike, and, with a little encouragement from her friends, he does!  Apparently,  Magical Motherhood still works as a plot point in the 21st Century.  And another creaky old device, the deus ex machina, in the form of an unexpected gift, finds our heroine in possession of the feel-good, pie-in-the-sky ending to which every musical aspires.

Lobby Retail Opportunities

Lobby Retail Opportunities

Waitress, the Musical at the National Theatre thru June 3. Original music and lyrics by Sara Bareilles, book by Jessie Nelson, choreography by Lorin Latarro, directed by Diane Paulus.

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It Never Gets Old 3: The Fancy Food Show, 2017 Edition Part 3: Levitation

New this year, the Level Up program presented a selection of exhibits and talks addressing the Future of Food.  It was both literally and figuratively elevated – upstairs from the exhibit floor and filled with blue-sky notions.  I caught a few of the talks and visited the exhibits.  Here are some highlights.

FreshDirect runs a food delivery service.  One of their concerns is maintaining and improving the speed of their delivery, so they are exploring cutting-edge methods of getting food into the hands of their customers in the most efficient ways possible.  Jason Lopes described innovations such as “dark stores” with no actual produce on the premises, for ordering only; drone delivery; urban agriculture; augmented and virtual reality for virtual merchandising, and other technologies that seem outlandish now but could be just around the corner.

And speaking of technology, Francisco Migoya discoursed about Modernist Bread, the latest publication from the folks who produced Modernist Cuisine and is no less exhaustive in its treatment of all grains fermented.  In five volumes (plus a kitchen manual) which took three years, 40 tons of flour, a scanning electron microscope, and a saw capable of cutting appliances in half to produce.

Francisco Migoya and Canned Bread

Francisco Migoya and Canned Bread

To what end?  This set of books appeals to the geek-foodies and professionals for sure, but what about the rest of us dilettantes?  No fear – some things of use to the home cook: producing a levain (a.k.a. sourdough starter), techniques for preserving that levain in a home freezer, and the best way to proof it (in a $70 wine fridge set to 55°).  Also, baking bread in a canning jar will preserve it for six months.  This was presented as a brand new thing! – which will be news to everyone in New England who has ever bought Boston brown bread in a can.

In response to an audience query, Mr. Migoya admitted to addressing gluten-free bread “because we had to.”  That’s just about how I feel about that whole question.

Another part of the floor contained exhibits from projects on the leading (bleeding?) edge included one from Drexel University’s Food Institute, which, oh, no! displayed a plate of gluten-fee chocolate croissant samples!  And yet, they were strangely edible.  Probably the presence of chocolate mitigated the absence of gluten.

Alexandra Zeitz of Drexel

Alexandra Zeitz of Drexel

Meanwhile, Alexandra Zeitz filled me in on the programs Drexel is working on for food recovery, to reduce food waste and repurpose excess produce.  An excellent enterprise!  More power to them, and all other programs working to that end.

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