We have been honored with the first U.S. location of LEON, which is serving up dishes much more interesting than the phrase “British food” might conjure in American imaginations. Think not about fish and chips, stodgy roasts, or mushy peas – the menu here is Mediterranean-diet influenced, with touches of Empire thrown in.
Their motto – “Naturally Fast Food” – can mean anything and nothing, but I don’t hold it against them. Their heart’s in the right place. The menu relentlessly reinforces LEON’s focus on fresh, locally-sourced, feel-good-about-eating-it choices. There’s a lot of kale, quinoa, and chicken; the waffle fries are baked. Still, there is bacon and sausage on the breakfast menu (served until 11:00 a.m., and replete with avocado and smoked salmon as well as “The Full English Breakfast Box.”)
A British Empire Sense of Graphic Design
Noble Steed and Waffle Fries
As the founder, John Vincent, follows a gluten-free diet, he has provided lots of opportunities to exercise that option, as well as accommodating low glycemic load, wheat-free, dairy-free, vegetarian and vegan eaters. And yet, choosing any dish on the menu would not come with a sense of deprivation, but with a satisfying depth of taste and generously abundant serving sizes.
Leon Founder John Vincent
It’s impressive that such high-quality ingredients can be offered at such reasonable prices. At the press preview, we tasted many of the menu items, and while I personally found some more appealing than others (I have to admit I’m tired of quinoa and over kale,) they ranged from above-average to excellent.
The menu is divided into categories based on format. There are salads, wraps, little and big “hot boxes,” and sandwiches. A certain set of ingredients gets recombined a lot, varying spices and flavorings to keep it interesting. So, sweet potato falafel can be had as a wrap with (excellent) hummus, or as the star of the Lebanese mezze salad with hummus, roasted carrots and the aforementioned kale and quinoa salad, or as a big hot box. All the hot boxes come with a generous amount of brown rice, which LEON cooks in a way that maximizes chewiness and flavor. I don’t know how far LEON will let you customize your lunch, but personally, I would opt for more rice and less salad.
Chicken Sandwich, with Lamb Kofta
Lebanese Mezze Box
And Modest With It
The Moroccan meatballs hot box is the most-ordered menu item, and with good reason. The beef meatballs are served in tomato sauce, topped with garlic aioli. Delicious! The lamb kofte run a close second, as do the pesto chicken meatballs. Vegetarians should head straight for the truffled portobello and halloumi sandwich. Truffle sauce adds that element of umami, and the grilled halloumi cheese (an unfamiliar element in the States outside Greek restaurants, but here served with many items) contributes a layer of flavor and an intriguing, chewy texture. I know it’s a cliché, but I had to say it: “I would order this even though I’m not a vegetarian!”
The chicken choices are all actual roasted thighs, not patties. Kudos should be given to LEON for having the courage to offer only dark meat in this breast-loving country. (Full disclosure: dark meat has always been my druthers.)
Very few of the choices are noticeably spicy, certainly not as served in their country of origin. A question of cultural appropriation, damped down for our American tastes? But many sauces are available to punch up the spice to your tolerance level. As long as you don’t expect the “Brazilian black bean” hot box to taste like a real feijoada, you’ll be happy here.
Drinks are also curated to present an array of quirky, interesting choices. There is kefir, kombucha, organic Tractor soda, teas and “steepers” (herb teas), and their own blend of organic, fair-trade coffee beans which they import and roast at Swing’s.
We got a peek into the kitchen, where many tasks are carried out simultaneously by well-trained workers. The front of the house was also being managed by greeters and servers handling the opening-week line with professional panache.
Organization in the Kitchen
Waiting to Order
The Serving Counter
The Greeter Manuel’s Pins Represent Training Courses He’s Passed
If that opening enthusiasm is maintained (and I can’t think why it won’t be), LEON will have a long and happy reign serving tasty, healthy food to the occupants of downtown Washington. And, may I suggest a few more branches in the ‘burbs? Say, Montgomery County?
LEON, 1724 L St NW, Washington DC
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