Eating Poland Part 2: Eating Out

Posted on November 22, 2012 by Judy

Traveling for business often does not allow much time for sightseeing.  The day is taken up by meetings, so eating dinner out is sometimes the greatest exposure to the local culture my colleagues and I can manage.   On this trip, we had several memorable evening meals.

I found the food in the restaurants we visited to be meat- and starch-heavy, with some dishes almost always on the menu: for appetizers, a variety of dumplings, marinated vegetable salads, fried cheese, and sausage; a lot of pork, less fish and chicken, with beef dishes always double the price of any other meat; beer plentiful, wine mostly good but not great (but then, we didn’t order really expensive wine.  Most of my colleagues appreciated the excellent and cheap beer).

As for me, I discovered to my delight that flavored vodka is widely available and rewards a spirit of curiosity.  One restaurant we patronized, Starka, boasted of their homemade vodka flavors.  We decided to hold them to their word.

Here is the complete list of vodka flavors I tried on this trip: Hazelnut, Hot Pepper, Rowan Berry, Ginger, Apricot, Honey-and-Herbs, Cherry, Pear, Walnut, Rosemary, Cinnamon, Raspberry, and Honey.  With the exception of Raspberry, which was far too sweet, they were all good.  Hazelnut, Rowan Berry, and Honey-and-Herbs were outstanding.

Another dinner, at C.K. Browar, a cavernous brewpub under the Old City of Krakow, was remarkable for the unfiltered beer served in tubes.  A table can order a 3.5  or 5  liter tube filled with unpasteurized beer straight out of the brewing tanks.  I had some too.  It was not bad for beer.

I got pork ribs, which came with two side dishes.  These arrived as two bowls of very good creamed spinach and beets (described as “fried” on the menu, they were shredded and sautéed.)  Together with my appetizer of fried goat cheese with bacon, cranberry sauce and horseradish “mousse,” which I split with a fellow diner, it was far more than I could finish.

And if I thought that that meal was over the top, I hadn’t seen nothin’ yet.  Our Polish hosts sponsored a dinner the next night which was held at Morskie Oko, a restaurant which boasts on its business card of having “live folk Polish music” as well as “delicious Polish regional cuisine.”  We were treated to a sumptuous meal served family-style, as well as a show of musicians, singers, and dancers in colorful folk costumes – but that’s another post!

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Natural Products Expo East, Part 2: Alice Waters, Blue Buddha, Made In Montana

Posted on November 12, 2012 by Judy

Alice Waters gave the keynote address at the Natural Products Expo East.  She is an inspirational speaker, and the audience was there to be inspired!

The young people in the chef’s whites are students at Stratford University’s culinary school.  They, along with the rest of us, listened raptly as Ms. Waters spoke of the threat posed by “the fast-food paradigm that surrounds us all.”

 

She went on to say that the fast-food culture values efficiency, availability and cheapness over the more human and humane virtues of ripeness, beauty, patience, and community – “things that make our lives meaningful.”  The cost of cheap food will come back to haunt us through effects on the environment or individual health.

Governments can muddy the issue by refusing to define standards, or having poor regulation of terms such as “sustainable” and “grass-fed.”  The EU is misusing standards to remove uniqueness from traditional, regional products.

 

She founded Chez Panisse, her seminal restaurant in Berkeley, in an attempt to capture the way of life she was exposed to in France, with two-hour lunches in which entire families participated.  Other values were incremental and initiated by her employees, such as the pastry chef who saved and reused every scrap.  With her current passions, the Edible Schoolyard Project and the Delicious Revolution, she hopes to see every school become the center of a network of suppliers, composters, and healthy food proponents.  Schools can become economic engines for communities, and teach children to embrace human values.

She concluded with a call to arms:  “We’re still the counter culture!  Don’t be co-opted!  Don’t compromise with the fast-food nation!”  Everyone in the audience heartily agreed.

Several of the products at the Expo seemed to epitomize Ms. Waters’ philosophy.  The Montana pavilion highlighted their grain products, including farro, an ancient European grain being organically raised on the Great Plains by the Timeless Natural Food company.  When I mentioned my interest in this newly-popular ingredient, David Oien gave me a package to try.  I will be comparing it to the Italian product I received from the importer Italian Products USA at the Fancy Food Show. (Click on the “farro” tag to find that article.)

Many  new products were being touted at the show.  One line being launched was particularly intriguing.  Blue Buddha herbal teas were available in four flavors, each promising aspects of enlightenment for those who imbibe.  I’m not sure I attained the next level of consciousness after trying them, but I did heartily approve of the flavor profiles of the teas on offer for tasting: fruity, not too sweet, and very adequately thirst-quenching.  I think the “Hibiscus Raspberry Revitalizing” flavor was my favorite.

And if drinking it improves my health and/or relationship to the universe, so much the better!

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Eating Poland Part 1: The Plac Nowy

Posted on October 29, 2012 by Judy

I spent a week in what must be the best place in Europe for eating cheaply but well.  Krakow, Poland, is a city full of genuine Medieval charm (not bombed in WWII) and genuine eating bargains.  I had several lunches and very good dinners with drinks, and never spent more than fifteen dollars for a meal.

Tuesday’s lunch, for instance, consisted of a “full Wypas” at the Plac Nowy market.  I walked there at noon on a dreary, rainy day and saw a sparsely populated market square with a few stalls selling vegetables and second-hand goods, surrounding a round brick building with inside stalls for meat sellers, none of them open.  I was about to mark it down as a wasted trip when I noticed that the market building was actually a central round structure with another, freestanding ring-shaped building encircling it; and this outer ring housed sellers of hot food.  Lunch!

I had to walk all round the ring before I mustered the nerve to order.  I confess to finding a placard labeled “English Menu” heartening.  I could tell it was a pretty direct translation from the Polish, and the prices were not raised for the tourists!

After waiting about 3 minutes, I was presented with a construction about as long as my arm.  It was warm baguette-like loaf, toasted, covered with mushrooms and melted cheese, ham, ketchup, pickles, and chives in a cardboard sleeve, for which I paid 8 zlotys.  I completed the meal with a can of Pepsi decorated with a picture of Elvis Presley (Elvis Pepsi!)  for 1 zloty more.  That was a grand total of three dollars.

 

 

Cheap, yes, but was it good?  Also yes.  Warm, crispy on the outside, tender in the crumb, with savory toppings, it was so big I could barely finish it – although my new best friends, the pigeons, helped me out there.

During my week in Krakow, I learned that the Plac Nowy was the main market for Kazimierz, the old Jewish Quarter, before the Holocaust.  Now, its business increases towards the end of the week (and depending on the weather).  I expect it would be more populated on the weekend, but I only saw it on lunch times and on Friday afternoon.

It was much livelier in the better weather.  On sunny Thursday, I went back for another full Wypas from another window in the wall.  This time I got a chicken with garlic sauce, and it was even better than the first one.  There were more second-hand stalls open, and I did some shopping; then I had to go back to my meeting.

On Friday, a colleague and I shopped for provisions to cook dinner for some of our fellow committee members.  The market was lively, the outer stalls were full, but alas! the meat stalls had closed before we got there.  We were directed to a butcher shop down the street, but that’s another post!

 

 

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Carla’s Encore and The Winery’s Debut

Posted on October 25, 2012 by Judy

One of our favorite demo chefs, Carla Hall, came out to the Olney Farmers and Artists Market last Sunday.  She did not disappoint the biggest audience of the season (by my estimate).  She cooked a mess of country-style greens and served them with cornbread.  Both recipes can be found in her new cookbook Cooking With Love, which will be published on November 6.

Before she started cooking, she took a tour of the produce vendors at the Market and came back with hot peppers from Mike at Homestead Farm, assorted veggies from Pleitez, Penn Farm, Westmoreland and Valle, and a bunch of rutabaga greens (!) from Joan Riser at  AvianMead.

She chopped them all up and made a pot of greens on the spot, to supplement the already-prepped batch she brought with – proving that you can use any greens for this recipe, as long as you cook each until tender.  They were served with cornbread to soak up the pot likker,  and everyone agreed they were delicious, even those who don’t generally like greens.

The recipe for the greens is posted on the OFAM website, but for the cornbread you’ll have to buy her book, publisher’s orders!

Also last Sunday, we welcomed The Winery At Olney to the Market.  They have just opened in the Fair Hill shopping center (see Bending An Elbow In Olney for a description of their operation).

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The Metro Cooking Show Is Coming!

Posted on October 25, 2012 by Judy

It’s almost time again for the Metropolitan Cooking and Entertaining Show.  I covered this show last year and had a lot of fun (click on the Metropolitan Cooking Show tag to see the articles).  This year, it occupies the Washington Convention Center on November 3rd and 4th.

This year’s big names will include Giada De Laurentiis, Jacques Pepin and daughter Claudine, Top Chef judges Tom Colicchio and Gail Simmons, The Chew’s Michael Symon and Carla Hall and Next Food Network Star winner “The Sandwich King” Jeff Mauro.

Local and regional chefs  with a connection to the James Beard Foundation will be showcased at a cooking stage on the show floor, including Scott Drewno from The Source by Wolfgang Puck and Spike Gjerde of Woodberry Kitchen in Baltimore.  Then there will be tasting and entertaining workshops, including one by Doron Petersan of Sticky Fingers Bakery; 400 specialty vendors offering products for sale; and a beer, wine and spirits pavilion.

There are several levels of pricing for admission, allowing access to different shows and events.  More information can be found at  www.MetroCookingDC.com.

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Natural Products Expo East 2012, Part 1 – The Show Floor: Big Apple, Little Fish, Everything In Between

Posted on October 25, 2012 by Judy

I went up to the Baltimore Convention Center to see the Natural Products Expo East.  They were very accommodating to the press, with a nice press room and a separate room for bloggers.

This Expo is similar in appearance to the Fancy Food Show, but has a differing vibe.  Where the FFS is hedonistic, the Expo is earnest, with a good-for-you-and-the-environment feeling to all of the products on display.  Also, food is just one part of the show, with health and beauty aids, supplements, pet products, and household goods included under the big  tent.

Herewith are some of my impressions of the food portion of the show floor.  I detected three big trends: gluten-free products, stevia-sweetened drinks, and Greek-style yoghurt.

There really is a Bob behind Bob’s Red Mill, and he was a big presence at the show – from entering the show floor leading a brass band, to signing copies of a book written about him (People Before Profit, by Ken Koopman), to hiring a professional photographer to take pictures of anyone who cared to pose with him.

I learned that Bob had given his Mill to his employees on his eighty-first birthday, but still remains involved with the business of grinding and shipping an amazing variety of whole grains to stores across the country.  Two years later, he can still outpace folks half his age.  He is his own best advertisement for his products!  Speaking of which, I got a sample of gluten-free muesli.

Down the hall, another company was showing their own take on grains.  Quinn Popcorn’s booth was manned by several twenty-somethings selling their flavored microwave popcorn with a nostalgia theme (!)  I liked their line drawings suggesting the furnishings of a mid-century kitchen, just like the one I grew up with.  There would not, of course, be a microwave oven in it.

 

The taiyaki maker was there from last year.  This time I got a good picture of the machine which fills the little fish-shaped waffles with crème.

 

In support of the Greek yoghurt trend, several small companies, as well as large, nationwide firms, were there to convince retailers that their brand was the best.  Chobani had a big presence, giving out product with a generous hand, as well as presenting a chef imported from their New York yoghurt cafe.

 

Executive Chef Tim Reardon was preparing samples of three yoghurt-based treats served there.  One, with olive oil, cucumbers and mint, was based on traditional recipes familiar from Greek and Indian cuisine.  I asked him something I had wondered about for years:  why has no company marketed this type of savory-flavored yoghurt?  He hinted that Chobani might consider doing this very thing, but would not say further.   Now, I have to admit that my favorite of the three samplings was the one with pistachio, dark chocolate, honey, oranges, and mint.

Snapz Apple Crisps had a small but eye-catching booth.  The apple-sitter even bore a passing resemblance to Snow White.  I didn’t ask if she was from New York.

 

And then there was Doron Petersan of Sticky Fingers Bakery, signing books at the Earth Balance booth.

 

Coming: Alice Waters! And more!

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I Saw The Mayor Twice In Four Days!

Posted on September 25, 2012 by Judy

The Mayor of Baltimore, that is – and, considering that I had never ever seen any mayor before, this was exciting!

The first time was at the 2nd Annual Urban Farm and Food Fair, held on a sunny Saturday at the Real Food Farm in Clifton Park.  This event was meant to recognize and celebrate the nascent urban farm movement in Baltimore.  Sponsored by organizations including the Farm Alliance of Baltimore City and Slow Food Baltimore among others, it was a chance to schmooze with farmers, local food producers, and representatives from such worthy organizations as the University of Maryland Extension, Johns Hopkins Center for a Livable Future, and the Maryland Department of Agriculture.  And, of course, a chance to eat really good food.

You could identify Mayor Rawlings-Blake because she was the only woman on the field in heels.  She stayed just long enough to give a short address and inspect the garlic drying shed, but it was still nice to know she supports urban farms and locally-produced food in Baltimore.

There was a row of food trucks and booths representing a spectrum of culinary philosophies, from vegan, gluten-free, conscious cuisine to barbeque and ice cream.  I went for the barbeque (well, it was chicken), and, yes, also the ice cream.

The barbeque was furnished by Clementine, a restaurant at the Creative Alliance, an artists and performance space in Highlandtown.  The barbeque was a little under-seasoned for my taste, but the chopped salad served with it was top-notch.  I have put Clementine on my list of places to investigate in the future.

The Taharka Brothers were selling their excellent ice cream.  I had to try their (locally sourced!) corn flavor to see if it was as good as what I had in Kennett Square (see A Pennsylvania Interlude), but once you’ve had corn ice cream topped with chile powder and cinnamon, you’re spoiled for the unadorned stuff.   Sorry, Brothers!

I had a nice chat with the Master Gardeners, and asked them about the grand old tree shading one end of the field.  They were able to identify it as a catalpa, a native tree with large panicles of flowers in the spring, now laden with long seed pods.

It made a nice backdrop for the steel drum band set up to entertain us!

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And there she was again at the press announcement event for the Baltimore Book Festival last Tuesday.

This book festival seems to grow larger every year.  This year, it’s expanding geographically as well as increasing the number of events and authors.  To emphasize the former, and announce their new partnership, the press event was held at Center Stage.  The festival will expand down Calvert Street to meet the theater, which will hold Open House to celebrate its 50th anniversary.

The festival will have a large science fictional footprint this year, thanks to the Science Fiction and Fantasy Writers of America (SFWA), of which I am a proud member.  Many panels and readings will take place at the Science Fiction Stage.

I will be splitting my time between the SF and the Food For Thought stages.  Doron Petersan, who has been a demo chef at OFAM, will be there with her vegan cupcakes, just as she was at the press event – though she probably won’t be giving the Mayor a lesson in decorating!

I had the good fortune to win a book by Steven Galloway, The Cellist of Sarajevo, so I will be looking to get it autographed; and I can’t wait to hear Laura Lippman, one of my favorite mystery writers; and there are some great music programs and tours on offer; and the exhibitors will need to be seen, of course – it will be a heck of a weekend!

 

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Bending An Elbow In Olney

Posted on September 23, 2012 by Judy

Earlier this month the Winery at Olney hosted a preview party for the Olney Chamber of Commerce.  We went along to sample the possibilities.

The Winery is a large, airy space in the Fair Hill Shopping Center.  A bar dominates the front room and affords access to wine, sold by the glass, bottle or case.  Their official opening day was September 15.

In the back, the wine making area can be used by those who want to make their own batches of wine (complete with personalized labels).  Customized label design is part of the service.  We got a demonstration of the bottle-filling machine.

They also make wine to sell, from juice shipped in from wine-growing regions the world over.  We tasted many of their products, from a selection of reds, whites and fruit-infused wines.  They are all eminently drinkable, the reds in the fruit-forward style and the whites crisp.   There is no pretension to greatness, but an emphasis on accessibility.  Several wines have droll locally-referenced names, such as “For Your Eyes Olney,” and “Georgia Avenue Peach.”

Owners Joe McCall and Jeremy Cronin lined up with Chamber member Jon Turgel for a picture.  The Winery doesn’t have a kitchen for food preparation, but is negotiating with Grillmarx to supply small plates suitable for pairing with wine.

I am leaning on them to arrange an event at the Olney Farmers and Artists Market some time before the end of the Market season.  Stay tuned here or watch the Market website for news on this!

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Drinking and Dining Under the Stars – The Farm to Table Dinner

Posted on September 18, 2012 by Judy

Seventy guests enjoyed wine, appetizers, a five-course seated dinner, more wine, and a dessert buffet in the bucolic atmosphere of a working farm last Friday.  The dinner was a benefit for the Olney Farmers and Artists Market.  For the volunteers setting up and tearing down, it was a long weekend.

We came out to Rocklands Farm early Friday morning with tables lent by the Sandy Spring Museum, transported on a trailer lent by the Olney Lions.  We set up the tables and chairs and the tents for the food prep area.  We were assisted in our efforts by a proprietary chicken.

We found some of the Plein Air Olney artists had gotten there even earlier, and were busy painting pictures that would be displayed for the enjoyment of the dinner guests.

I couldn’t resist an arty shot myself.

When the early setup shift left, the second shift took over, setting the dinner tables and arranging the area on the lawn for the appetizers, most furnished by Market vendors, and wine tasting.  The tables, with flowers by Kelly Shore, looked wonderful.

It was dusk when the guests entered the barn for the dinner.  The band was playing, and the strings of lights looked magical.

The tables were soon occupied by guests eagerly anticipating the five courses cooked by our wonderful chefs.

They were treated to several short talks about the venue, the wine and the food, but mostly they were serenaded by the Smith Avenue Band.

Then they paid visits to the dessert table for a sweet finish (especially if they took a Georgetown Cupcake!), with coffee; and so, departed happily.

Some of the volunteers stayed behind to tidy, but the hard work of cleanup was done on Saturday by Janet Terry and John Harbison.  They deserve extra thanks!

 

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Daredevil Chefs at Market

Posted on September 12, 2012 by Judy

Chef John Melfi of the Blue Duck Tavern at the Park Hyatt and his sous chef Michael did a star turn at the Olney Farmers and Artists Market last Sunday.  They chose to prepare Watermelon Gazpacho, even though they had been warned that a chef last month had prepared that very dish.

They were justified in their confidence that their recipe would not be redundant.  I believe that their garnishes allowed it to stand on its own, and I think everyone who sampled it agreed.

One of the garnishes consisted of small balls cut from the sides of cucumbers with a tiny melon baller.  Others, previously prepared, were cubes of yellow and red watermelon infused with simple syrup.

Chef John explained that the restaurant prepares them ‘sous vide,’ so that the sugar penetrates the melon but doesn’t cloy – it just make the melon taste like a much sweeter fruit than it naturally is.  Another garnish, house-made watermelon pickle, provided yet another complementary variation on the theme.

Chef John and Michael took a little tour of the Market in search of ingredients to add to their demo, as we encourage all our chefs to do.

They asked if we had any hot peppers.  Well, as a matter of fact –

 

 

 

Mike at Homestead Farms takes great pride in his range and variety of hot peppers.  He set them out in the order of their hotness.  They ranged from Jamaican Red at 150,000 Scoville units to tiny but deadly Ghost peppers at over 1,000,000 Scoville units! (Scoville units are the measure of a pepper’s hotness.  For comparison, Jalapeno peppers measure a mere 1,500 Scoville units.)

Our intrepid guest chefs took the challenge.  Each tasted a tiny piece of the ghost pepper.  Chef John’s reaction?   “I think my head just exploded!”  Michael was speechless.

They did, however, live through the experience.  I’m glad they did, because I hope to invite them back for an appearance next season!

And a big Thank You to the farmers who contributed produce to the demo last week: Pleitez, Westmoreland, Valle, and of course Homestead.

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