Up To New York City: The 2013 Fancy Food Show, Part 1: The Show Floor

After two years in Washington DC, the show moved back to its home in the renovated Javits Convention Center. We made the pilgrimage north to attend. It was totally worth it.

The floor was full of exhibitors, there were after-hours events, and panels (especially one called “Chop, Chat and Charm”) were especially interesting. There was one disappointment, in that the Italy pavilion didn’t have a demo kitchen this year, but there were lots of features in other country’s establishments to compensate.

Part of the German Pavilion

Part of the German Pavilion

Two were right next to each other on the show floor. Germany had a kitchen with demos scheduled throughout the show, with happy chefs delighted to cook and chat. It was just one part of the larger German presence.

German Chefs

German Chefs

Morocco, surprisingly for a small country, had a big spread (both food and real estate)! Everyone there was happy to talk about their food, and they and their pavilion were candidates for Most Colorful Entry.

This is not to say that Italy was outclassed. There were rows of Italian food booths, each sponsored by a different importer. Cheese, Parma ham and other cured meats, and olive oil dominated, but the presence of truffles was duly noted. Funny, nobody was offering samples of truffles.

Morocco Pavilion

Morocco Pavilion

Moroccan Spread

Moroccan Spread

 

 

 

 

Italian Meats

Italian Meats

Italian-influenced food and importers of European products were also there in force. Marky’s had an especially impressive presence, with sampling and a chef on hand.

Truffles - You Could Smell, But You Couldn't Eat

Truffles – You Could Smell, But You Couldn’t Eat

D’Artagnon had their own exclusive version of ham – Mangalica from Spain. Oh, and truffles!

Markey's Chef Marc and Offerings

Marky’s Chef Marc and Offerings

 

 

D'artagnon Had Truffles, Too

D’Artagnon Had Truffles, Too

And Washington, DC’s own celebrity chef, Jose Andres, had a line of imported products from his native Spain on display.

Jose Looms Over His Products

Jose Looms Over His Products

Roland, another big importer, had Virginia Willis as their big draw. Well, they also had a display and sampling of their wonderful variety of foods, but a famous chef is a big attraction for yours truly!

Virginia Willis Cooks

Virginia Willis Cooks

Then there were the sweets. A tapioca maker had an eye-catching display of a giant inflatable bubble-tea cup. Trust me, it was more impressive in real time than a still photo, with the balloons in motion!

Attack of The Giant Bubble Tea

Attack of The Giant Bubble Tea

Sweet Shop USA showed their specialties, including handmade chocolate shoes.

Chocolate Shoes

Chocolate Shoes

And the Polish importers showed off the impressive cake that I remembered from last year’s Polish-sponsored party.

Polish Tree Cake

Polish Tree Cake

There was lots more going on, of course, but these were my best pictures!

Stay tuned for Part 2: Events Off The Floor.

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A Morel As Big As My Hand

No kidding!  And it was growing under the arbor vitae next to my porch, about three feet from my house!

The Morel In Its Native Habitat

The Morel In Its Native Habitat

 

I lost no time cutting it and cooking it for dinner.  Well, OK, I did make sure to check in the book that it actually was a morel – it’s been years since the last one popped up –  but there was positive ID and it became a main component of our dinner.

 

Morel With Quarter For Scale

Morel With Quarter For Scale

 

And since the pokeweed  is finally appearing, we had a truly seasonal dish of noodles with morels, pokeweed, Vidalia onion (left a little crunchy for contrast), and Parmesan cheese.  The morel was earthy and delicious, with lots of umami.

Morel, Poke, Noodles

Morel, Poke, Noodles

 

 

 

The pokeweed, first of the season, was mild enough not to overwhelm the other flavors.  An excellent supper!

 

I thought it would be a good time to try seasoning the noodle water in a new way.  At the Fancy Food Show, I picked up a sample of Numi Savory Tea.  This is a new line for the Numi company – a vegetarian alternative to bullion and caffeinated hot beverages.  I thought it might be used as a flavoring agent in cooking, and it did impart a subtle flavor to the noodles when I dropped a Fennel Spice teabag in the boiling water.  I can imagine other uses for these teabags, such as a substitute for chicken stock in creamed vegetable soups.

 

Numi Tea (from numitea.com)

Numi Tea (from numitea.com)

They are blends of different vegetables, spices, and decaffeinated tea, and contain all organic ingredients.  I look forward to trying other varieties, like Carrot Curry and Tomato Mint, but not the Broccoli Cilantro – those are two of my least favorite flavors!

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Two OFAM Chefs Will Be Judges at Embassy Chef Challenge

I noticed that two famous local chefs who have been demo chefs at the Olney Farmers Market will be judges for the Embassy Chef Challenge next week.  Joan Nathan and Amy Riolo, along with other chefs and food writers, are featured at the charity event.

The annual benefit supports the free programs and events provided by Cultural Tourism DC, a nonprofit organization dedicated to promoting Washington DC’s art, culture and heritage.  This is a unique benefit of living in the Washington DC area – a chance to take advantage of a diverse selection of cuisines as interpreted by Embassy chefs from around the globe.

Fifteen Embassy chefs will take part in vying for People’s Choice and Judge’s Choice Awards. There will also be an auction with items offering diverse culinary and travel adventures.  Here are the details of the event, from  the Embassy Chef Challenge website:

EMBASSY CHEF CHALLENGE GALA

The 6th annual Embassy Chef Challenge will take place on Thursday, May 15 from 6:00-9:30 p.m. Chefs from around the world, who usually serve only to dignitaries and heads of states, will dish up hors d’oeuvres showcasing their countries’ cuisine while trying to win favor for the People’s Choice Award. A panel of celebrity chefs and food critics will select the Judge’s Choice. Proceeds from the evening will benefit Cultural Tourism DC, a nonprofit organization dedicated to promoting the art, culture and heritage found in Washington’s diverse neighborhoods.

DATE: Thursday, May 15, 2014
TIME: 6:00 – 9:30 p.m.
LOCATION: Ronald Reagan Building and International Trade Center, 1300 Pennsylvania Ave. N.W.
TICKETS: $250 per ticket. Early registration is encouraged— last year’s event sold out.

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No Gazing, Plenty of Stars

The dinner billed as “Stargazing Vegetarian” turned out to be neither (but not in a bad way).   There were, however, plenty of cosmic vibes!

It was a warm day in early Spring in Ashton.  Greg and Nadine Mort opened their beautiful, mid-century rambler full of Greg’s artwork and astronomical objects to the last OFAM fundraising dinner of the 2013-14 season.  There was food, drink, and entertainment to be had, in abundance.  Alas, when it came time to do the stargazing, the sky had clouded over!  Never mind, the ever-resourceful Greg substituted an entertaining lecture instead.

The table was beautifully set with Nadine’s crystal and china.

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Table Setting With View of the Living Room

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Table Setting With View of the Telescope

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Table Setting Detail

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And a View of the Outside

The volunteers gathered to discuss the service, and the chef, Evelyn Bunoan, and her husband Oscar, set up the buffet.  Chef Evelyn is Master Chef and owner of Philippine Oriental Market and Deli, and has been named one of the most influential Filipina women in the US by the Filipina Women’s Network.

Volunteers Strategizing Before Dinner: Unknown, Dawn, Nancy, Jacob, Bobbi, Janet

 

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Chef Evelyn and Oscar Set Up the Buffet

Elyse Kudo, of Jackson Family Fine Wines, generously donated red and white wine.  Here she is with Nadine and Greg, with the setup for the wine and Nadine’s Cosmic Cocktails.

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Elyse, Nadine, Greg

As the guests arrived, the servers passed around hors d’oeuvres with the cocktails.

 

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Mingling Over Drinks

Then we headed across the lawn to the observatory for a look at the big telescope,

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On Wheels!

and the bigger telescope.

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It Has Its Own House

Chef Evelyn cooked one of the dinner dishes right in front of everyone, and then the buffet of wonderful Philippine food was spread for the guests to fill their plates.

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Chef Evelyn Demonstrates a Noodle Dish

 

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The Buffet

Although the dinner was mainly vegetarian, there were two dishes with fish and crabmeat, so there was something for everyone.

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My Plate

At dinner, Elyse described the wines we were drinking, and Janet Terry, OFAM President,  thanked everyone for their wonderful patronage of the Market.

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Elyse Talks About the Wine

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Janet Waxes Enthusiastic About the Market

For dessert, a grand selection of dishes, some by our Market producers, and others by volunteers, was offered; and a violinist, Jeff Issokson, entertained.

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Dessert Buffet

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A Selection of Exotic Fruit

Then came the “consolation” lecture, to replace the cloud-occluded stargazing.  No one was disappointed.  Or, as one delighted guest said, “It just keeps coming!  I never expected all these extras!”

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Greg Enlightens the Guests

The guests were given copies of a book full of Greg’s wonderful artwork as souvenirs of a most delightful evening!

The money raised by this and other fundraisers will allow the Market to supplement the Farmers Market SNAP and WIC programs.  We thank all the generous patrons who contribute to our efforts to promote good nutrition in our area.

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In It For Good – The PHA Summit

What could possibly signal your intentions better than having the First Lady as your honorary Chair?  The Partnership for a Healthier America,  as earnest an organization dedicated to the public welfare as I have seen, held their Building A Healthier Future Summit last month in Washington, DC.

With a set of general sessions, breakouts, and an exposition, as well as meal events, the Summit showcased their commercial and nonprofit partners committed to improving the health of all Americans, with a heavy emphasis on reducing childhood obesity through education, nutrition, and exercise.  This fits neatly with Michelle Obama’s “Let’s Move!” initiative.  Although there was a distinct air of self-congratulation hovering around some of the presentations (mostly from the bigger commercial partners), the impression that everyone there was working for the common good was inescapable.  There were plenty of opportunities for partners to learn, network and do business while indulging in VERY, VERY HEALTHY samples, snacks and meals.

The First Lady had a presence far bigger than her keynote address on the second day of the conference.  Several presentations namechecked her by way of touting their nutrition cred.

Big Bird and First Lady

Big Bird and First Lady

The main point taken from the opening plenary was the importance of water in childhood nutrition.  One speaker mentioned that bottled water costs more than soda, and concluded with a plea to fix the water fountains in public schools.  (See this post for my opinion on this topic).

At lunch, the point was reinforced by the table favors – water bottles with built-in Brita filters.

The lunch program featured James Beard-award winning chefs Hugh Atcheson and Barbara Lynch (who just happened to have designed the lunch menus), as well as Sam Kass (heading up the “Let’s Move!” program), discussing ways to get kids to accept vegetables, encourage home cooking and teach what used to be called “home economics” in schools.  Kids need to dig potatoes, and public schools must reduce their dependence on contract purchasing.

 

Lunch Menus

Lunch Menus

Very HealthyLunch

Very Healthy Lunch

 

Michael Jacobson, of the Center for Science in the Public Interest, was there.  He reiterated that unhealthy drinks  contribute to childhood obesity, and observed that corporations are revising their advertising policies to kids for unhealthy food and drinks.  What could motivate them to make new foods reasonably healthy?  “Bad publicity or threat of jail.”

Chef Panel, L to R: Atcheson, Lynch, Kass

Chef Panel, L to R: Atcheson, Lynch, Kass

 

After the panels, there was a movement break.  A hip-hop artist named Real Doug E Fresh got the entire ballroom full of attendees dancing in place.  He led a corps of very well-muscled young hunks in tight tee-shirts in a dance routine, and invited everyone to join him on stage.

 

Push-Ups - The General Is The Grey-Haired Guy

Push-Ups – The General Is The Grey-Haired Guy

 

 

Lt. Gen. Mark Hertling, who just a few minutes ago was on a panel expounding on the poor shape of enlisted men, went push-up for push-up with the best of them!

 

Lunch would have been painfully healthy if it wasn’t also delicious.  The same could be said for the samples given out in the exhibition hall.

Morrison Chefs - Just Before Their Formal Pose

Morrison Chefs – Just Before Their Formal Pose

Delicious Morrison Food

Delicious Morrison Food

Morrison Healthcare, a major provider of hospital food programs, had a big presence there.  Their exhibits were eye-catching as well as nutritious. The cupcakes were made with black beans and chickpeas, and were delicious.  There were chocolate turtles with almond butter and agave substituting for caramel.

 

And The Cupcakes Got Feet!!

And The Cupcakes Got Feet!!

 

The swag included food-themed objects, like veggie pens.

 

Veggie Pens Posing

Veggie Pens Posing

Other exhibitors included Walmart, Birds Eye, Cooking Light magazine, and the mushroom people (“Fresh Mushrooms – Nature’s Hidden Treasure.”)

 

After lunch, one of the panels was moderated by Donna Shalala, former Secretary of Health and Human Services, now President of the University of Miami.  Addressing the need to maintain a healthy college environment, it explored how institutions can work to achieve a culture of fitness for young adults.

 

On Friday, the food marketing panel was full of ideas on how to use the powers formerly employed to sell junk food for the cause of good.  Cookie Monster is now pushing fruits and vegetables.  George Leon from Sony Pictures described how the movie Cloudy With A Chance Of Meatballs 2 featured tie-ins with collaborator Feeding America, a nationwide chain of food banks.  Todd Putnam of Bolthouse Farms developed the Food Porn Index to track what kinds of foods are shared on the Internet.  One highly amusing website!

 

Donna Shalala

Donna Shalala

Then, at last, after another tasty but healthy lunch, and more speakers – including an actual Muppet -it was time for the First Lady.  She spoke charmingly about how her mother and grandmother planned meals for the week.  Wednesday was liver night, “a sad night in our house.”  She started cooking when her kids outgrew the “jar stage.”  Many mothers can relate to that.

She reiterated her commitment to ending childhood obesity in a generation, and according to the latest research, we may be on our way to accomplishing it!  She promised to continue working toward that goal when she leaves the White House.

The First Lady Speaks

The First Lady Speaks

She graciously met her fans among the attendees – and there were many!

First Lady Times Four

First Lady Times Four

Then, with her exit, the conference was over.  Here’s looking forward to reporting even more progress next year for this exemplary cause.

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Review: The Al Tiramisu Restaurant Cookbook

The title of this book is a misnomer.  Yes, it’s a cookbook, but also an autobiography, tutorial of Italian cuisine, travelogue, and repository of wisdom learned over the life of a successful chef and restaurateur.

There are essays about growing up in Italy, accounts of cooking for celebrities and statesmen, testimonials from chefs and stars, and pictures of rustic landscapes with goats and cattle: an illustrated survey of Chef Luigi Diotaiuti’s varied career.  After a culinary education working in more than 40 kitchens in Europe and the United States, he opened Al Tiramisu.  It has been a fixture in Washington, DC for 18 years, a lively and delicious dining experience.  I will forgive him the shot with the DuPont Circle farmers market in the background, but only because he mentioned the Olney Farmers and Artists Market in the same sentence.

 

Chef Luigi, with Amy Riolo, at Olney Farmers and Artists Market

Chef Luigi, with Amy Riolo, at Olney Farmers and Artists Market

Then there are the recipes.  They range from very simple (Escarole Soup), to those for which the ingredients might be hard to find, like wild boar and bottarga – but in case you are seized by the compulsion to prepare these, there is a list of suppliers in the back.

I prepared several, and all were delicious.  Butternut squash and balsamic vinegar risotto describes the standard risotto method, with two small but crucial additions: a bit of heavy cream stirred in at the very end, and a hollowed-out cherry tomato filled with balsamic vinegar topping each serving.  Together, they balance richness with umami – and add a distinctive touch of interactive garnish to the experience.

Shrimp and barlotti bean salad lives up to its description as “light and sparkling.”  One quibble I had with it: the direction to drain away the flavored water in which the shrimp boiled for less than two minutes – and waste that savory mix of lemon, wine, peppercorns, celery, onion, and bay leaves!  Saved, and boiled up for a few minutes more with the shrimp heads and shells, it made the base of a tasty soup for the next day’s lunch.

Shrimp and Barlotti Bean Salad

Shrimp and Barlotti Bean Salad

Each recipe comes with an introduction, usually about the personal meaning it has for Chef Luigi.  While these add to the human interest level of the book, they also contribute to a design flaw (in my opinion): many recipes are printed on two or more pages, and very rarely on facing pages, which make it necessary to turn pages for the complete recipe.  This forces the cook to complete the entire mise en place before executing the instructions.  While I recognize that this is a necessity in restaurant kitchens, this lazy home cook would rather see the whole recipe at once, on facing pages.

This should not, however, dissuade anyone from obtaining and enjoying this book.  I look forward to cooking more dishes from it, such as the Strawberry and prosecco risotto in the spring.  And, of course, buying the strawberries from the farmers market.

Diotaiuti, Luigi, The Al Tiramisu Restaurant Cookbook: An Elevated Approach to Authentic Italian Cuisine, www.altiramisu.com, 2013.

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Librarians Have Appetites!

Why would a food writer attend a librarian’s convention?  Like everyone else, librarians appreciate cooking and eating, and they buy books on those topics for their libraries.  The exhibit hall of the Midwinter Meeting of the American Library Association in Philadelphia had a stage right on the floor called What’s Cooking @ ALA, with two days of demos scheduled during the five-day event.  In addition, many publishers featured food-themed books in their lists.  And, guess what?  There was food scattered around the exhibit hall – although pound for pound, most of it was chocolate!

Food on Convention Floor During Opening Reception

Food on Convention Floor During Opening Reception

I was only able to attend the demos on one day.  On Saturday, pizza and cupcakes were on the menu; the third scheduled demo was cancelled.  Still, the two I caught were entertaining and informative – especially the first one.

 

Scott Wiener Making Pizza

Scott Wiener Making Pizza

Scott Wiener, author of Viva La Pizza: The Art of the Pizza Box, demonstrated his expertise at making a thin-crust pie.  He passed on hints, for instance: crushed tomatoes are the sweetest canned tomatoes, because they were the ripest fruit when they were processed.  He is not only the world record-holder for his pizza box collection, but he makes crust and sauce look easy.  And it was delicious!

Scott Signs His Book

Scott Signs His Book

 

The book contains pictures of a representative sample of his collection, together with entertaining tidbits about the history, construction and artistry of pizza boxes.  There are unexpected delights on every page.  Who knew Ed Hardy designed a pizza box?  And the phantasmagorical Japanese box is a stunner.

 

The Robicellis (Allison and Matt), disappointingly, were not prepared to make cupcakes.  Instead, they made truffles, which any fool can do (melt chocolate chips in cream, chill, roll in cocoa or whatever; hey, presto, done!), but they did talk entertainingly about their book Robicelli’s: A Love Story, with Cupcakes.  And they did bring cupcakes to sample.

 

Allison and Matt Robicelli Talk About Their Book and Life

Allison and Matt Robicelli Talk About Their Book and Life

They are advertisements for their ingredients – sugar, flour, butter (as in buttercream icing for each and every recipe), and their book is as much autobiography as cookbook.  It’s the story of how two gritty, working-class Brooklynites rose to be professional chefs and opened a cupcake bakery; but not your prissy, sweetie-pie cupcakes, no, they bake cupcakes for grown-ups.  Full of bacon, fried chicken, espresso, and (I swear) ghost peppers.  I’m not going near El Melocoton de la Muerte (The Peach of Death!!!), but I’d like to try my hand at the Bea Arthur (black coffee chocolate cake, cheesecake buttercream, espresso ganache).  It’s one of the simpler recipes.  Most in the book have three or four components and seem like they would take all day for an amateur cook to produce.  Many have a mitigating tip labeled “Half-Assed Corner,” which gives permission to cheat on some part, albeit while making the reader feel slightly ashamed – but that’s part of the book’s gestalt, so go with it.

Mummers Are In The House

Mummers Are In The House

And what else, besides booksellers, publishers, library furniture, and the occasional jewelry seller (?) ?  Why, mummers, of course (it is Philadelphia), and a 3D printer.

3D Printer - Every Library Needs One

3D Printer – Every Library Needs One

 

And a lovely woman, Robin Blum, selling bookmarks which can double as gift cards.

 

In My Book Marks

In My Book Marks

 

And books.  Yes.  I somehow acquired a pile of books.

Stack O'Books

Stack O’Books

 

Of course, we couldn’t be across the street from Reading Terminal Market without patronizing one of my favorite places in Philadelphia.  We ate jambalaya and etoufee from Beck’s Cajun Cafe.  Both delicious.

 

Cajun Lunch

Cajun Lunch

 

 

 

 

The Convention Center has been both a blessing and a curse.  While the market has come back from near-death through neglect, it is mobbed at lunchtime, and has become dominated by prepared-food stalls.  Still, Bassett’s Ice Cream is still there (since 1861!), and a woman filling cannoli to order.

Bassett's - Still There

Bassett’s – Still There

Cannoli Filled To Order

Cannoli Filled To Order

 

Among the produce, meat, fish and poultry stalls, there are cookie bakeries and cheese hipsters.

The cookbook stall is still there, and the piano man who plays for tips.

 

 

 

Valley Shepherd Creamery Cheese Hipsters

Valley Shepherd Creamery Cheese Hipsters

I never manage to carve out enough time to do the market justice.  Maybe on the next trip!

Piano Man

Piano Man

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More Wonders of Baltimore

We drove up to Baltimore last weekend, to attend an event sponsored by the Slow Food Baltimore group, but (of course) we first swung by a farmers market.  And then we visited another market, new to us but strangely familiar.

The 32nd Street Farmers Market in Charles Village stays open year-round, on Saturday mornings.  It starts at the ungodly (but not un-farmerly) hour of 7 a.m.  We got there at around 10 a.m.  Fortunately, there was still plenty to see and buy.  And pet.

Baby Goats

Baby Goats

Also entertainment, on a less formal basis than some markets.

Buskers

Buskers

 

The neighborhood, which is very close to Johns Hopkins, is full of old row houses with Baltimore bays.  Their occupants range from hipsters to students to old original residents.  They all turn out for the market.

House Fronts

House Fronts

 

There are little touches of artiness, from a butterfly on a stop sign to very esthetic trash cans.

It's Art!

It’s Art!

 

It's an Arty Trash Can!

It’s an Arty Trash Can!

We then proceeded uptown to the Hunt Valley Agricultural Center, where Kerry Dunnington was signing her cookbook, Planet Kitchen Table.  She brought along several dishes to tempt noshers and potential book purchasers: Horseradish Dip with homemade pita chips, Gingered Coconut Carrot Soup, Tarragon Basil Chicken Salad on homemade focaccia, Shortbread with apricot jam baked in, and my two favorites: Cheese Curry Pate with Plum Sauce, and Mango and Cardamom Coffee Cake.  If all the recipes in the book make food this good, it’s a fine investment!

 

The Hunt Valley area has become a very interesting food destination.  Years ago, the McCormick Spice Company relocated there from the Inner Harbor.  As I stepped out of the car at the Ag Center, I fancied that I could smell the spices, just as one once could when the wind was right in downtown Baltimore.

 

Talking to the Slow Foodies, I learned that there is an Amish Market just down York Road.  We made an unscheduled stop, and found a market full of specialized food stalls not unlike those in Laurel and Germantown.

 

Kerry Serving Up

Kerry Serving Up

There are meat counters (both barbeque and deli), dry goods, cheese, dairy, fruit and vegetables, candy, bakery, a restaurant, and a large furniture salesroom.  The candy stall has a scary chocolate bunny – it’s three feet tall, weighs 20 pounds, and can be yours for only $95.00.  The chocolate-covered bacon in the foreground proves that the Amish can be as trendy as anyone.

 

Bacon and Bunny

Bacon and Bunny

 

Outside the market, there was a display of lawn ornaments.  This cast-iron turkey caught my eye.

 

Cast Iron Turkey

Cast Iron Turkey

 

Now why would anyone fancy a fake turkey on their lawn?  A decoy?  To dress up for holidays (like some folks dress geese)?  I myself am partial to flamingos, but it would be hard to keep a cast-iron flamingo upright!

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Farmers and Fellowship – Saturday at the FH-CASA Conference

Sitting in a session on local food councils on Saturday at the FH-CASA Conference, I realized that this event, and others like it, is not really about the panels, or the food, or the exhibits.  It’s about building a sense of community and carrying it forward into the world for the next year, and beyond.  Sustainable agriculture, family farms, local food sheds – all are there because of individuals who produce, process, distribute and consume in a way that sustains our lives and provides for the future of the planet. They must be supported.  We can only do it by pulling together.

So that’s the sermon for today.  It was inspired by that panel, at which I heard about the idea of the “Chesapeake foodshed” – a system of locally-produced, healthy food within reach of all income levels.  That sense of community was maintained by the next panel, of old and new farmers.  The old ones mused on how “sustainable” used to be a bad word.  No longer!

Farmers, Old and New

Farmers, Old and New

They were gratified to see how many young farmers were in attendance.  One had a pithy comment when asked about words of wisdom based on his experience: “Thirty years of farming is not thirty years of experience, but thirty one-year experiences!”

The exhibit hall held booths occupied by a variety of organizations eager to sell goods and services to farmers.  There were also some interesting sartorial statements.

Steve and His Cow Tie

Steve and His Cow Tie

 

Goat Tee (Not Goatee)

Goat Tee (Not Goatee)

 

Whole Foods, a conference sponsor, invited attendees to pinpoint their locations on a board which formed (not incidentally) a big picture of the Chesapeake foodshed.  I couldn’t help but notice that the Olney Farmers and Artists Market is right in the middle of it.

Sign Board

Sign Board

 

Close Up of Signs on Board

Close Up of Signs on Board

Lunch was once again composed of products donated by local producers and cooked by the staff at the conference center.  At dessert, the chefs were thanked for their flexibility and spirit of cooperation in dealing with unusual ingredients – there were, for instance, quinoa, and cream of Jerusalem artichoke soup – but the fried chicken at dinner Friday was the best dish of the weekend.

Lunch

Lunch

 

Thank You, Chefs!

Thank You, Chefs!

One of my lunch companions wore a necklace of vegetables that just perfectly captured the spirit of the day.  Cheryl Kollin runs Full Plate Ventures, which takes surplus produce, processes it, and freezes it “to nourish those who are hungry.”   She is a supporter of the foodshed!

Cheryl and Her Necklace

Cheryl and Her Necklace

 

After lunch, Curt Sherrer from Millstone Cellars Cider  described how he came to brew “wine style” cider (as opposed to most commercial hard ciders, which are done “beer style.”)  Millstone took over an old mill in Monkton, Maryland, and converted it to cider and mead production.  Since then, they have experimented with grafting heirloom apples to rootstock in an abandoned orchard, and with various flavor additives to cider – such as sour cherries, fresh hops, garlic, and fish peppers.  Some of these worked better than others, as you might expect.  Undaunted, they anticipate trying more flavors, such as lemon grass, different kinds of mint, mulberries, spruce, juniper, and magnolia blossoms.  They are working towards local sourcing of all ingredients.

Curt and His Cider

Curt and His Cider

Curt brought along some of his honey-blended cider, called “blossom.”  It was at once crisp and sweet, worth seeking out.  Distribution is limited at this point, mostly to shops and restaurants around Baltimore, but stay tuned – it may appear at Olney Farmers and Artists Market this summer!

There was big news at this conference: FH-CASA announced its plan to merge with the Pennsylvania Association of Sustainable Agriculture (PASA), which is in the early planning stages.  Here’s hoping that this will allow the good work FH-CASA has been doing to go forward with renewed vigor in the future!

 

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Fomenting Fermenting Farmers – Friday at FH-CASA Conference

I was able to attend both days of this year’s Farming for Profit and Stewardship Conference last month, organized by Future Harvest – Chesapeake Alliance for Sustainable Agriculture (FH-CASA).  On Friday, there was a choice of several workshops before their formal program of panels and presentations.  I signed up for the one on fermentation.  Not the alcoholic kind, though; our objective was a tasty batch of sauerkraut.

Tables were set up inside the industrial-sized kitchen of the Marriott Inn and Conference Center at the University of Maryland.  I recognized the fermentation workshop area by the oversized bowl of cabbages (as opposed to the goat butchering workshop, on the other side).

Butchering a Goat: Better Visuals Than Cabbage!

Butchering a Goat: Better Visuals Than Cabbage!

 

We got a rundown of techniques for preserving produce by fermentation, courtesy of Meaghan and Shane Carpenter of HEX Ferments  (soon to open a shop in Belvedere Square Market in Baltimore).  Fermentation produces a selective, anaerobic environment, in which beneficial microbes thrive and harmful ones are killed.  The process results in a product that is slightly pre-digested – which sounds off-putting, but consider: pickles, kimchi and sauerkraut have been enjoyed around the globe for hundreds of years.

Cutting Up Veggies

Cutting Up Veggies

After the short lecture, we got to work slicing up the cabbage, golden beets, kohlrabi, and apples, and mixing in the sea salt.  The mixing went on for longer than I would have imagined – a good 20 minutes or so – until a little brine could be seen at the bottom of the bowl.  This was the sign that the mix was ready to be packed into jars.

Mixing It Up

Mixing It Up

 

There was enough for everyone to take home.  We were instructed to let it sit out for three days, then refrigerate.

The (Almost) Finished Product

The (Almost) Finished Product

And sure enough, it was delicious.  Crisp and only slightly pickled, it could ripen over time, even in the “Fermentation Slowing Device (refrigerator),” if there was any left!

 

Finished Pickle

Finished Pickle

 

 

Meaghan also talked about kombucha.  This cultured drink is becoming increasingly popular for its health benefits, but I must admit that I have never been able to get past the taste, and the samples she offered did not change my mind.

As we left the kitchen, I noticed that the butchering workshop was also finished.

All Done Butchering

All Done Butchering

 

The fermentation theme continued with the conference keynote speaker: Sam Calagione, founder and president of  Dogfish Head Brewery.  As an English major, he was working in a bar (do you want beer nuts with that?) when he got the idea to open a brewery.  His education came in handy, as he claims, “There is probably no better work of fiction than a business plan!”

 

He is now producing locally-sourced ales as well as beer-centric food, such as brats, clam chowder (based on a recipe in Moby-Dick – there’s that English degree again), and hop pickle.  But possibly his most interesting new venture involves working with molecular archaeologists at the University of Pennsylvania to develop beer based on ancient recipes.

Dogfish Head Honcho Sam Calagione and Friend

Dogfish Head Honcho Sam Calagione and Friend

 

At a session geared to farmers markets, I learned many interesting things that could be applied with benefit to OFAM – among them, that Amy Crone, late of the Maryland Department of Agriculture, now is executive director of the Maryland Farmers Market Association; and that the University of Maryland Extension runs a nutrition education program called Market To Mealtime.

 

Then it was time for the reception, sponsored by Whole Foods, and dinner, with food contributed by many of the farmers attending the conference, and cooked by the chefs of the conference center.

Friday Dinner

Friday Dinner

 

There was a silent auction.  Just like last year, a dinner contributed by Brian Voltaggio of Volt Restaurant in Frederick was on offer.  And just like last year, it was way out of my price range!

 

Volt Envy Again - And Woodberry Kitchen Too!

Volt Envy Again – And Woodberry Kitchen Too!

 

And in an “it could only happen here” moment, a box full of portabella mushrooms, still in their growing medium, contributed by one of the exhibitors in the Exhibit Hall (on which more in next post).

 

Grow Your Own Portabellas

Grow Your Own Portabellas

 

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