Residents of the Olney area no longer have to travel across the county to find good food from the Indian subcontinent. Frances Gomes, who has been selling Indian/Bangladeshi food at the Olney Farmers Market for two seasons, has opened a restaurant. If the food on opening day is any indication, it should be a winner.
The interior is simply but pleasingly decorated, with walls painted to look like stone and comfortable seating in the small space.
Mr. Gomes’ chef is his father-in-law, who reportedly was the personal chef for the sultan of Oman for 20 years. The kitchen includes a Tandoori oven, which is put to good use turning out Tandoori chicken and delectable naan (puffy flatbread).
The menu touches all the expected bases: samosas, curries, kabobs, two types of bread, vegetarian dishes heavy on beans and pulses (but not heavy in execution), desserts, and drinks. In addition to the printed menu, a buffet for lunch and dinner offers a chance to sample many dishes for a bargain price ($8.95). I took advantage of this, while my dinner companion opted for an appetizer and main course from the menu.
The mixed vegetable cutlet was freshly fried, well seasoned and contained a surprise: mozzarella cheese, which added a welcome contrasting texture. This dish might be improved with the addition of a sauce or pickle alongside.
The lamb vindaloo, also from the menu, needed more spiciness to meet expectations of the usual preparation of this dish. Although delicious (and generous in portion size), it had the mild spicing common to all the dishes we sampled. When this was mentioned to him, Mr. Gomes promised to address it.
From the buffet, the Tandoori chicken was tasty and tender from its marinade and quick cooking in the hot clay oven. The mixed vegetables, channa masala (chickpeas and vegetables in tomato sauce), daal (lentils nicely seasoned), chicken curry (again, mild – I had to check the sign on the chafing dish to identify it as curry); were all dishes that stood up well to the buffet table environment. I did not sample the beef dish – I had intended to, but was too full!
There is a welcome spicy note on the buffet table in the form of a vegetable pickle. A little of this condiment spices up your food quite nicely, if you feel the need for it – or even if you don’t require a certain amount of heat, it goes very well with the daal and channa masala.
The rice pudding for dessert hit just the right note for ending the meal. I had only a little, because I had indulged in a mango lassi to go with the buffet. I have a weakness for this blended drink of fruit and yoghurt; Namaskar’s version is an excellent rendition.
Namaskar is located in the strip mall behind the old White’s Hardware building, just off Georgia Ave. at Norbeck Road. Mr. Gomes also expects to continue selling prepared food at the Olney Farmers Market next season.
Namaskar: 4007-BB, Norbeck Rd, Rockville, MD 301-929-1055. No website. Call for operating and buffet hours.
