The Metro Cooking Show Is Coming!

It’s almost time again for the Metropolitan Cooking and Entertaining Show.  I covered this show last year and had a lot of fun (click on the Metropolitan Cooking Show tag to see the articles).  This year, it occupies the Washington Convention Center on November 3rd and 4th.

This year’s big names will include Giada De Laurentiis, Jacques Pepin and daughter Claudine, Top Chef judges Tom Colicchio and Gail Simmons, The Chew’s Michael Symon and Carla Hall and Next Food Network Star winner “The Sandwich King” Jeff Mauro.

Local and regional chefs  with a connection to the James Beard Foundation will be showcased at a cooking stage on the show floor, including Scott Drewno from The Source by Wolfgang Puck and Spike Gjerde of Woodberry Kitchen in Baltimore.  Then there will be tasting and entertaining workshops, including one by Doron Petersan of Sticky Fingers Bakery; 400 specialty vendors offering products for sale; and a beer, wine and spirits pavilion.

There are several levels of pricing for admission, allowing access to different shows and events.  More information can be found at  www.MetroCookingDC.com.

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Natural Products Expo East 2012, Part 1 – The Show Floor: Big Apple, Little Fish, Everything In Between

I went up to the Baltimore Convention Center to see the Natural Products Expo East.  They were very accommodating to the press, with a nice press room and a separate room for bloggers.

This Expo is similar in appearance to the Fancy Food Show, but has a differing vibe.  Where the FFS is hedonistic, the Expo is earnest, with a good-for-you-and-the-environment feeling to all of the products on display.  Also, food is just one part of the show, with health and beauty aids, supplements, pet products, and household goods included under the big  tent.

Herewith are some of my impressions of the food portion of the show floor.  I detected three big trends: gluten-free products, stevia-sweetened drinks, and Greek-style yoghurt.

There really is a Bob behind Bob’s Red Mill, and he was a big presence at the show – from entering the show floor leading a brass band, to signing copies of a book written about him (People Before Profit, by Ken Koopman), to hiring a professional photographer to take pictures of anyone who cared to pose with him.

I learned that Bob had given his Mill to his employees on his eighty-first birthday, but still remains involved with the business of grinding and shipping an amazing variety of whole grains to stores across the country.  Two years later, he can still outpace folks half his age.  He is his own best advertisement for his products!  Speaking of which, I got a sample of gluten-free muesli.

Down the hall, another company was showing their own take on grains.  Quinn Popcorn’s booth was manned by several twenty-somethings selling their flavored microwave popcorn with a nostalgia theme (!)  I liked their line drawings suggesting the furnishings of a mid-century kitchen, just like the one I grew up with.  There would not, of course, be a microwave oven in it.

 

The taiyaki maker was there from last year.  This time I got a good picture of the machine which fills the little fish-shaped waffles with crème.

 

In support of the Greek yoghurt trend, several small companies, as well as large, nationwide firms, were there to convince retailers that their brand was the best.  Chobani had a big presence, giving out product with a generous hand, as well as presenting a chef imported from their New York yoghurt cafe.

 

Executive Chef Tim Reardon was preparing samples of three yoghurt-based treats served there.  One, with olive oil, cucumbers and mint, was based on traditional recipes familiar from Greek and Indian cuisine.  I asked him something I had wondered about for years:  why has no company marketed this type of savory-flavored yoghurt?  He hinted that Chobani might consider doing this very thing, but would not say further.   Now, I have to admit that my favorite of the three samplings was the one with pistachio, dark chocolate, honey, oranges, and mint.

Snapz Apple Crisps had a small but eye-catching booth.  The apple-sitter even bore a passing resemblance to Snow White.  I didn’t ask if she was from New York.

 

And then there was Doron Petersan of Sticky Fingers Bakery, signing books at the Earth Balance booth.

 

Coming: Alice Waters! And more!

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I Saw The Mayor Twice In Four Days!

The Mayor of Baltimore, that is – and, considering that I had never ever seen any mayor before, this was exciting!

The first time was at the 2nd Annual Urban Farm and Food Fair, held on a sunny Saturday at the Real Food Farm in Clifton Park.  This event was meant to recognize and celebrate the nascent urban farm movement in Baltimore.  Sponsored by organizations including the Farm Alliance of Baltimore City and Slow Food Baltimore among others, it was a chance to schmooze with farmers, local food producers, and representatives from such worthy organizations as the University of Maryland Extension, Johns Hopkins Center for a Livable Future, and the Maryland Department of Agriculture.  And, of course, a chance to eat really good food.

You could identify Mayor Rawlings-Blake because she was the only woman on the field in heels.  She stayed just long enough to give a short address and inspect the garlic drying shed, but it was still nice to know she supports urban farms and locally-produced food in Baltimore.

There was a row of food trucks and booths representing a spectrum of culinary philosophies, from vegan, gluten-free, conscious cuisine to barbeque and ice cream.  I went for the barbeque (well, it was chicken), and, yes, also the ice cream.

The barbeque was furnished by Clementine, a restaurant at the Creative Alliance, an artists and performance space in Highlandtown.  The barbeque was a little under-seasoned for my taste, but the chopped salad served with it was top-notch.  I have put Clementine on my list of places to investigate in the future.

The Taharka Brothers were selling their excellent ice cream.  I had to try their (locally sourced!) corn flavor to see if it was as good as what I had in Kennett Square (see A Pennsylvania Interlude), but once you’ve had corn ice cream topped with chile powder and cinnamon, you’re spoiled for the unadorned stuff.   Sorry, Brothers!

I had a nice chat with the Master Gardeners, and asked them about the grand old tree shading one end of the field.  They were able to identify it as a catalpa, a native tree with large panicles of flowers in the spring, now laden with long seed pods.

It made a nice backdrop for the steel drum band set up to entertain us!

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And there she was again at the press announcement event for the Baltimore Book Festival last Tuesday.

This book festival seems to grow larger every year.  This year, it’s expanding geographically as well as increasing the number of events and authors.  To emphasize the former, and announce their new partnership, the press event was held at Center Stage.  The festival will expand down Calvert Street to meet the theater, which will hold Open House to celebrate its 50th anniversary.

The festival will have a large science fictional footprint this year, thanks to the Science Fiction and Fantasy Writers of America (SFWA), of which I am a proud member.  Many panels and readings will take place at the Science Fiction Stage.

I will be splitting my time between the SF and the Food For Thought stages.  Doron Petersan, who has been a demo chef at OFAM, will be there with her vegan cupcakes, just as she was at the press event – though she probably won’t be giving the Mayor a lesson in decorating!

I had the good fortune to win a book by Steven Galloway, The Cellist of Sarajevo, so I will be looking to get it autographed; and I can’t wait to hear Laura Lippman, one of my favorite mystery writers; and there are some great music programs and tours on offer; and the exhibitors will need to be seen, of course – it will be a heck of a weekend!

 

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Bending An Elbow In Olney

Earlier this month the Winery at Olney hosted a preview party for the Olney Chamber of Commerce.  We went along to sample the possibilities.

The Winery is a large, airy space in the Fair Hill Shopping Center.  A bar dominates the front room and affords access to wine, sold by the glass, bottle or case.  Their official opening day was September 15.

In the back, the wine making area can be used by those who want to make their own batches of wine (complete with personalized labels).  Customized label design is part of the service.  We got a demonstration of the bottle-filling machine.

They also make wine to sell, from juice shipped in from wine-growing regions the world over.  We tasted many of their products, from a selection of reds, whites and fruit-infused wines.  They are all eminently drinkable, the reds in the fruit-forward style and the whites crisp.   There is no pretension to greatness, but an emphasis on accessibility.  Several wines have droll locally-referenced names, such as “For Your Eyes Olney,” and “Georgia Avenue Peach.”

Owners Joe McCall and Jeremy Cronin lined up with Chamber member Jon Turgel for a picture.  The Winery doesn’t have a kitchen for food preparation, but is negotiating with Grillmarx to supply small plates suitable for pairing with wine.

I am leaning on them to arrange an event at the Olney Farmers and Artists Market some time before the end of the Market season.  Stay tuned here or watch the Market website for news on this!

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Drinking and Dining Under the Stars – The Farm to Table Dinner

Seventy guests enjoyed wine, appetizers, a five-course seated dinner, more wine, and a dessert buffet in the bucolic atmosphere of a working farm last Friday.  The dinner was a benefit for the Olney Farmers and Artists Market.  For the volunteers setting up and tearing down, it was a long weekend.

We came out to Rocklands Farm early Friday morning with tables lent by the Sandy Spring Museum, transported on a trailer lent by the Olney Lions.  We set up the tables and chairs and the tents for the food prep area.  We were assisted in our efforts by a proprietary chicken.

We found some of the Plein Air Olney artists had gotten there even earlier, and were busy painting pictures that would be displayed for the enjoyment of the dinner guests.

I couldn’t resist an arty shot myself.

When the early setup shift left, the second shift took over, setting the dinner tables and arranging the area on the lawn for the appetizers, most furnished by Market vendors, and wine tasting.  The tables, with flowers by Kelly Shore, looked wonderful.

It was dusk when the guests entered the barn for the dinner.  The band was playing, and the strings of lights looked magical.

The tables were soon occupied by guests eagerly anticipating the five courses cooked by our wonderful chefs.

They were treated to several short talks about the venue, the wine and the food, but mostly they were serenaded by the Smith Avenue Band.

Then they paid visits to the dessert table for a sweet finish (especially if they took a Georgetown Cupcake!), with coffee; and so, departed happily.

Some of the volunteers stayed behind to tidy, but the hard work of cleanup was done on Saturday by Janet Terry and John Harbison.  They deserve extra thanks!

 

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Daredevil Chefs at Market

Chef John Melfi of the Blue Duck Tavern at the Park Hyatt and his sous chef Michael did a star turn at the Olney Farmers and Artists Market last Sunday.  They chose to prepare Watermelon Gazpacho, even though they had been warned that a chef last month had prepared that very dish.

They were justified in their confidence that their recipe would not be redundant.  I believe that their garnishes allowed it to stand on its own, and I think everyone who sampled it agreed.

One of the garnishes consisted of small balls cut from the sides of cucumbers with a tiny melon baller.  Others, previously prepared, were cubes of yellow and red watermelon infused with simple syrup.

Chef John explained that the restaurant prepares them ‘sous vide,’ so that the sugar penetrates the melon but doesn’t cloy – it just make the melon taste like a much sweeter fruit than it naturally is.  Another garnish, house-made watermelon pickle, provided yet another complementary variation on the theme.

Chef John and Michael took a little tour of the Market in search of ingredients to add to their demo, as we encourage all our chefs to do.

They asked if we had any hot peppers.  Well, as a matter of fact –

 

 

 

Mike at Homestead Farms takes great pride in his range and variety of hot peppers.  He set them out in the order of their hotness.  They ranged from Jamaican Red at 150,000 Scoville units to tiny but deadly Ghost peppers at over 1,000,000 Scoville units! (Scoville units are the measure of a pepper’s hotness.  For comparison, Jalapeno peppers measure a mere 1,500 Scoville units.)

Our intrepid guest chefs took the challenge.  Each tasted a tiny piece of the ghost pepper.  Chef John’s reaction?   “I think my head just exploded!”  Michael was speechless.

They did, however, live through the experience.  I’m glad they did, because I hope to invite them back for an appearance next season!

And a big Thank You to the farmers who contributed produce to the demo last week: Pleitez, Westmoreland, Valle, and of course Homestead.

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A Pennsylvania Interlude

We had an errand to run in Chadds Ford, PA, southwest of Philadelphia, so we took the opportunity to eat in Hank’s Place.  This used to be one of the places we stopped off on our way to Philly, when we were making regular trips to see my family, and then when our daughter was in school there.  Since we don’t do that so much anymore, it was nice to go back and see that Hank’s has hardly changed.

Hank’s building is almost completely camouflaged with flowers.  My personal theory is that they feel the need to keep up appearances because they are just down the road from Longwood Gardens!

Inside, it has the classic diner configuration of a counter lined with stools with a short-order grill behind it, and tables down the other side.  One clue that it’s a little bit more upscale than that?  The wine rack.

And, of course, the food.  In addition to grill fare, Greek specialties and breakfast all day, the specials include risotto, shrimp and crab salad, and apple jack brandy raisin sauce for the hickory smoked pork chops.

I ordered the cheesesteak in a burst of nostalgia, and Barry had a REAL chocolate milkshake with his crab cake sandwich.  They fixed mine just the way I like it, with mushrooms, onions and Provolone cheese.  My only quibble was with the roll, which was too soft; but it was as close to a Philly cheesesteak as I have had outside that town.  It was garnished with a ripe, in-season tomato slice.

Then we went in search of Phillips Mushrooms’ retail outlet.  This used to be right on Route 1, but that small store and Mushroom Museum closed years ago.  We found the new place WAY off the beaten track outside of Kennett Square.

Off the bypass, through the middle of town, down a country road (bear left at the fork), past the mushroom sheds, and turn into the driveway of a big, old farmhouse built in 1828.

The Woodlands at Phillips is named for the antique store which was run from this building for years by Linda Phillips-Steller’s aunt.  She and her daughter, Meg Steller, greeted us and were delighted to give us a tour and sell us some mushrooms.  The house came into the Phillips family in 1890 as a wedding present.  It has been lovingly restored and now houses not only a store but a modern kitchen to hold cooking classes with local chefs (for schedule, email woodlandspa@gmail.com).  The frescoes in the hall were painted by a local artist.

On the porch overlooking a meadow, a clear cover shields the original 30-foot deep well, which still holds water.  Wrens nest on the exposed roof beams.  On the enclosed back stairway walls, the original paint technique has been preserved.

Along the way, I learned that Phillips is the largest grower of specialty mushrooms in the US.  It was founded in 1926 by Linda’s grandfather.  She wasn’t sure exactly how many different sites they have, but there are many! Enough to accommodate over 1 million square feet of growing space.

We bought crimini, portabellas, shiitake, oysters, and a type of puffball they call Pom-Pom.

Then we drove back into town to find the ice cream store we’d passed on the way to the mushrooms.  It had been recommended by two locals, and they had not been misleading us.

La Michoacána offers homemade ice cream in a rotating variety of mundane and exotic flavors.  Its perennial bestseller is corn (elote), with optional sprinkles of chile powder and/or cinnamon.  And no matter how outlandish that might sound, it’s really good.  Their coffee and mango flavors are impressive, but their Nutella is amazing.  They also have paletas (Latin American-style ice pops), and other specialties.  All the signs are thoughtfully bilingual.  This store alone had us planning a return visit to Kennett Square.

We noticed the town’s devotion to food in two more details on State Street (the main West-bound route through town): The giant rooster outside the cafe, and the peppers planted smack in the center of the decorative planters lining the street.

If we’d had time, we would have had dinner in the La Michoacána Grill down the street, but we had to go.  We promised ourselves we would return soon to the Mushroom Capital.

 

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The Governor Invited Us To A Cookout

And we accepted.  In honor of Buy Local Challenge Week, Gov. O’Malley held a party on his lawn for folks involved in local food production and press.  Many little tents were erected and tables under them were populated by teams of Maryland chefs and producers offering samples of their creations.

Falcon Ridge Farm and Elk Run Vineyards, two of our Market producers, were represented by their fine products.  James Ricciuti of Ricciuti’s Restaurant was grilling Stanton Gill’s peaches and serving them with beef and peanut sauce.

I started and just about ended the moveable feast with goat products.  An appetizer called “Three Goats Gruff,” a goat meat ball stuffed with goat cheese, was my initial taste.  It was the best meatball ever.

I strolled on to Saval’s fried oysters with Silver Queen corn, tomato and peach salad and aioli.  Silver Queen!  I didn’t know anyone was growing it anymore.  When I first moved to Maryland almost 40 years ago, it was everywhere – now it’s all but gone.  I miss it!  Cooked as soon as picked, you can’t beat the sweet, yet still “corny” flavor.

Fish and corn was a popular combination.  Rockfish Imperial with corn salad and tomato jam was the offering from Chef Martin Saylor.  The booth decorations were his wife’s idea.  The food was delicious as well as photogenic.

I was especially eager to try “Tongue and Cheek Tacos” from Michael Cleary of St. John’s College.  Beside appreciating the pun, I am very fond of variety meats, and tongue is not easy to find.  I thought it was brave of Chef Cleary to offer this recipe for the competition, as not so many folks appreciate offal.  The tacos were so good, I had two.

 

 

 

Desserts were as interesting as the other courses.   Chef Nancey Veldran swore that the dark chocolate Caprikorn dessert truffles with port were made with goat cheese, but the other ingredients masked that taste.  The overall impression was of one luscious dessert.

And my attempt at dining symmetry was ruined when I noticed ice cream on offer.  I had to have some.   Although not part of the Challenge menu, the Taharka Brothers company makes some of the best ice cream in the state.

The company was as good as the food.  Besides many politicians, food industry people and press, there were Hector deLorimar and Robin Tam, organizers of the Canton Farmers Market in Baltimore.  This is the first year for their small, neighborhood market.

The Watermelon Queen was there, and so was one uninvited guest.

 

 

The Governor was there to read a proclamation and entertain us.

The weather was hot, but I have it on good authority that it wasn’t as hot as last year.  Rain threatened but did not fall until after the Cookout was over.  We made our escape in good time (and it was a very good time!)

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Julia Child’s 100th Birthday

Is today!  Actually, to be totally accurate, it’s the 100th anniversary of her birth.  She died at 92 years of age, so she didn’t make it to 100 alive, except that she lives in our memories and her legacy to American cooking.

I met her twice, once at a Smithsonian Associates lecture and once at a store demonstration, years ago; but I (along with millions) feel that I know her through her television series and books.  “The French Chef” and Mastering the Art of French Cooking were the start of a movement away from canned and packaged foods and towards real, honest cooking in this country.  Her legacy is tangible and ongoing for both professional and amateur chefs.

Today, as the Smithsonian is holding a celebration in the National Museum of American History, the centerpiece of the party is the (re-)opening of Julia’s kitchen.  It was donated to the NMAH in 2001.  While this kitchen was the set of three of her television series, the best part is that it was her actual home kitchen in Cambridge, Massachusetts, for years, and it shows.

The Smithsonian reassembled it as part of their new exhibit due to open in November, “FOOD: Transforming the American Table 1950-2000,” a serious (and overdue) treatment of how technological, social and cultural trends influenced eating in America.  The kitchen is much more accessible to museum visitors, being just off the Constitution Avenue lobby instead of buried in the basement, as the previous installation was. See it quickly, as it will close again on September 3, and remain closed until the new exhibit opens.

At the press event yesterday, John Gray and Paula Johnson of NMAH welcomed us and gave us some information about the new exhibit: it will have about 300 objects in addition to the hundreds in the kitchen; it will include a ‘communal table’ at which museum visitors can express their thoughts about and experiences with food; and, perhaps most significantly, it will serve as the kickoff for The Food and Wine Project, an ambitious undertaking which will include ongoing collecting efforts, symposia and intellectual exchanges, and online and public programs.  In 2015, following museum renovations, there are plans for a state-of-the-art demonstration kitchen.

I talked to Philadelphia Cousins, Julia’s niece, who was there as a representative of the Julia Child Foundation for Gastronomy and the Culinary Arts (and, of course, as a personal connection to the Ghost of Honor).  She carries a family resemblance, with both her face and her height.

Asked for personal memories of her aunt, Phila said that she and her mother would often visit, especially when Julia would call and ask them to taste dishes.  “I’m practicing puff pastry!” and there would be a meal with several courses of puff pastry variations.

She remembers “simple, beautiful meals.”  When asked if her aunt ever talked about her service with the OAS during World War II, she would only say that she talked about meeting Paul in Ceylon – “He liked her legs quite a bit.”

I’m looking forward to the full FOOD exhibit in November. Dare I end with “Bon Appetit!”?

 

 

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Fancy Food Show Part 4: The Parties

There are always after-hours events at the FFS.  I attended three of them.

The Polish Union of Producers and Employers of the Meat Industry (UPEMI) held a press conference followed by a banquet in celebration of “Tradition, Quality, and European Taste.” During the  press conference, I learned that a settlement of the meat trade dispute between the US and EU was announced in March 2012, resulting in a lifting of the ban on European meat imports into the US since 1997.  All parties are anticipating a liberalization of the market, bringing opportunities and challenges for the EU and Poland.

The Polish meat industry was determined to show us what they could provide, and they did a great job of it.  The banquet was held in the Hyatt Regency Washington, with separate buffet tables of meat dishes and vegetables.

 

 

 

 

 

 

The place of honor was given to a display of hams, complete with their own chef.

In addition to more conventional choices, the dessert buffet was crowned with a most unusual cake.

 

The tree cake also came with its own waiter, who explained that it was made on a spindle, layer by layer, and spun while baking.  When sliced, it resembles a tree’s growth rings and outer bark.  The cake, or Sekacz, tradition, dates back to the 14th century.

The other two parties had a lot to live up to.  The Egyptian party was held at the Economic and Commercial Bureau of the Embassy of Egypt.  It had tables full of products from Egypt, all appropriate for party food: olives (many kinds), cheese, jam, cookies, pickles, artichokes, hummus, chickpeas, and other goodies.  There were also passed finger foods.

The Austrian party was the same night, in a nightclub in Georgetown.  We cabbed it there and were rewarded with traditional Austrian food: bratwurst and sauerkraut, pork and spaetzle, wiener-schnitzel, something else (my notes and pictures were both fuzzy by this point!)  We were too tired to wait for dessert.  We were partied out!

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