“Not Where He Eats, But Where He Is Eaten…”

Polonius would have attracted eaters of rotting flesh if Claudius’ men hadn’t found him soon enough, just as the titan arum at the Botanic Garden is supposed to do.  I wouldn’t know, even though I went down there yesterday to experience the “putrid odor” firsthand.

I was disappointed!  Those sneaky folks handling publicity fail to mention that the odor is only released at night, when the building is closed.  So, the hundreds of people waiting in long lines to see and smell the thing for themselves may just as well stay home and view it on the webcam (http://www.usbg.gov/return-titan).

Part of the Line, With the Capitol in the Background

Part of the Line, With the Capitol in the Background

After waiting forty minutes in the heat, I found myself in the presence of many other curiosity-seekers, every one of whom was armed with a camera or smart phone.  They were not afraid to use them.

The Arum and the Crowd Contemplate Each Other

The Arum and the Crowd Contemplate Each Other

Well, OK, there was this giant flower, and it was pretty spectacular.  But, after looking at it for a few minutes, taking pictures of it, and taking pictures of others taking pictures of themselves and it, it was sort of a letdown that the smell everyone expected wasn’t there.

Wide View of the Crowd

Wide View of the Crowd

Not that anyone was going to throw a fit over it, and the employees and volunteers doing crowd-wrangling couldn’t have been nicer – they must have answered the smell question hundreds of times, yet remained cheerful.  The building was open extra hours, and everyone was welcome to wander through it at will.

Driven Crazy by the (Nonexistent) Smell?

Driven Crazy by the (Nonexistent) Smell?

Picture of Picture of Picture

Picture of Picture of Picture

There are many things to admire about the Botanic Garden.  The bat flowers (Tacca integrifolia), for instance.

And there were little lessons given about gardening and nutrition in raised beds outside, an installation called Food For Thought.  There! I knew I could get a tie-in to food on this post, somehow!

Bat Flower

Bat Flower

Greens Garden

Greens Garden

On the way home, there was the Washington Monument, with its scaffolding illuminated.  Nice!

Washington Monument, Lit

Washington Monument, Lit

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What Took Them So Long? Part 2: The Cookbook

So the Post has finally published a collection of recipes from the 57 years the Food section has been running.  How did they choose from among the thousands it has published over the years?  The editors asked the readers for their favorites, then they added a selection of “four-and five-star rated dishes” from their archive.  The result is a somewhat uneven but endearingly idiosyncratic set of dishes.

Washington Post Cookbook Cover

Washington Post Cookbook Cover

They range from “Misery Meatloaf”(the ultimate comfort food, from a cookbook inspired by the sitcom Friends) to “Gastronomer Roast Chicken and Potatoes” (by Andreas Viestad by way of famous chef Thomas Keller).  In between lie recipes contributed by readers, adapted from embassy chefs, graciously bestowed by First Ladies, even derived from the Internet.  They are all attributed with a little story of their origin, and described with a level of care and attention to detail as to tempt a beginning cook into undertaking something new.

I found the “Ginger Spiced Chickpeas” to be a little tamer than I have eaten in ethnic restaurants, but delicious, and very easy to make.  (And of course if you like it a little spicier, it’s easy to add pepper.)  I also tried the method for making “Chocolate Grapes” but used pitted fresh cherries – it worked beautifully.

Ginger Spiced Chickpeas (Lettuce Added For Crunch)

Ginger Spiced Chickpeas (Lettuce Added For Crunch)

I do have a problem with this book, and it’s one that seems so simple that it’s puzzling: there is no nutrition information included for any of the recipes.  This despite the fact that the Post Food section has included this data for years, for as many of the recipes as they can calculate it.  And! Both Phyllis Richman in her Foreword and Bonnie Benwick in her Introduction to this book mentioned this feature proudly!  Well, where is it, guys?

There is plenty of white space on most pages, so page real estate can’t be the reason.  Indeed, the layout is exemplary, with lovely food photography and only one recipe that I could spot needing a page-flip for the instructions (and that was a fiddly one for “Goat Butter Biscuits”).

It’s good to have a collection from the Post in a permanent format.   I hope it’s the first of many more.

Bonnie S. Benwick, ed., The Washington Post Cookbook, The Washington Post, Time Capsule Press, 2013.

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What Took Them So Long? The Washington Post Cookbook Part 1: The Panel

“RESERVE NOW,” read the notice in the calendar listings of the Food Section.  “Washington Post Cookbook Panel…Daniel Zwerdling…Phyllis Richman…Bonnie S. Benwick…Joe Yonan…Tom Sietsema…Tim Carman…Taste of Barracks Row…Dave McIntyre…wine tasting…FREE” (!)  I reached for the phone and made my reservation.  On June 20, I Metro’ed down to the Hill Center at the Old Naval Hospital, clutching my copy of the book, and found a seat among many other food groupies.

Full House At Hill Center

Full House At Hill Center

The past and present WaPo food stars filed in.  You could finger Tom Sietsema as the current restaurant critic – he was in mufti.  And Bonnie was really rockin’ those shoes!  Daniel Zwerdling, the moderator, has written about food topics himself.  He had many leading questions prepared for the panelists, which led to a fascinating, wide-ranging discussion.

Panel: Joe Yonan, Bonnie Benwick, Daniel Zwerdling, Tim Carman, Tom Sietsema, Phyllis Richman

Panel: Joe Yonan, Bonnie Benwick, Daniel Zwerdling, Tim Carman, Tom Sietsema, Phyllis Richman

Phyllis Richman’s stories about the early days of the Post food section and her association with it were fascinating – some “only in Washington” anecdotes, like getting a phone message from Ethel Kennedy wanting advice on the best place to hold a rehearsal dinner for her son.  When asked if she had the power to shut down a restaurant with a bad review, she replied, “If I had, there’d be a lot fewer restaurants!”

Joe Yonan’s new cookbook will be vegetable-based, in tune with his new orientation.  “It was my second coming-out,” he claimed.  “My friends said: ‘It’s just a phase,’ and, ‘Maybe you just haven’t met the right bacon!'”

Tom Sietsema is in the witness protection program.  He has about 10 credit cards in different names, some with androgynous names so the woman at the table can pay for the meal.  He has gotten help from the CIA (not the culinary one) with disguises.  How does he feel about amateur reviewers on Yelp (and blogs)?  “Great – it brings more people to the party!”  Thanks, Tom!

Tim loves to find little ethnic restaurants and write about them.  He asked me after the panel about any possibilities in Olney, and I mentioned Pho and Grill, a terrific place not just for the pho (which you can find everywhere), but the warm bowls of noodles-with-salad-and-grilled meats.

Bonnie talked about the cookbook; more about that in Part 2.  Meanwhile, there was the reception.

The Barracks Row neighborhood has experienced an amazing rebirth since I used to work in the Navy Yard forty years ago.  Four of the restaurants from there, and a wine source, had set up tasting stations as lagniappe.

Belga Cafe's Eggs, Filled While You Watch

Belga Cafe’s Eggs, Filled While You Watch

Belga Cafe offered truffled eggs with braised pork belly and spinach flan.  Dynamite.  The tastings from Lavagna included Papa Weavers’ porchetta, applewood smoked Maryland blue crab and North Carolina trout rillette.  Notice two trends here: cured pork products, and identifying your products’ source.

Lavagna's Sampling

Lavagna’s Sampling

Cava Mezze was also there, serving something fried which I did not manage to document before I forgot (sorry, Cava!), and Zest had crab gazpacho with Ahi tuna tartare.

I met Maggie Myszka of the Hill Center, who told me that the Old Naval Hospital Foundation was formed to establish an educational and event venue in the historic building.  They’re doing a fine job of it.  As I was leaving, I noticed a board listing the daily activities.  Very impressive, as is their large demonstration kitchen!

Hill Center Event List

Hill Center Event List

 

Going home on the Metro, there was a woman wearing a dress patterned with coffee beans. 

Coffee Bean Dress

Coffee Bean Dress

Next post: A review of the book.

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Many Books, Some About Cooking

 

On May 18, the grounds of City Hall and the Post office were filled with the booths, tents and stages of the 4th Annual Gaithersburg Book Festival.  This was the first year I had attended, and I was agreeably surprised at its size and  activity level.  While it doesn’t attract the star power or have the  breadth of the National or Baltimore festivals, it was much less crowded than either of them, easier to get to (and park at!) and just as enjoyable, in its modest way.

Checking the author list, by coincidence I already had five books written by authors scheduled to be appearing.  Although there were only two cookbook authors scheduled, the variety of featured authors was impressive.  I got there early, to have a good seat for King Peggy.

King Peggy

King Peggy is a secretary living in Washington, DC who was appointed ruler of her native village in Ghana.  She soon realized that the elders thought that by having a long-distance king, they could continue the corrupt rule they had  become accustomed to.  Peggy, however, had other plans.  She now spends part of the year on both continents, bringing education and running water to the town’s 7,000 souls.

King Peggy Dancing to the Signing Tent

When it came time for lunch, we wandered over to the row of food trucks drawn up on one edge of the grounds.  One of them, Red Hook Lobster Pound, tempted me to indulge in a decadent and spendy lobster roll.  It was worth the price!

Food Trucks All In a Row

I noticed a woman with a most unusual purse.  It was a chicken, and it was rubber.  Yes.  Yes, it was.

 I encountered her again at the used book sale.  After I bought my three cookbooks, I remarked on the object on her arm.  Her children had given it to her as an appropriate present – she raises laying hens.  And yes, she does see the humor of it.

This Woman Has a Rubber Chicken On Her Arm

Kitty Kelly spoke about her book on the Kennedy family (and the death threats from Frank Sinatra);  Sam Kean talked about popular science writing (he wrote The Violinist’s Thumb); and Pati Jinich wrapped up the day’s presentations with a cooking demo.

She brought along her son, Juju, to help.  It was inspiring to watch him pour oil, squeeze limes, and mix the Watermelon, Tomatillo and Mint Salad!  Meanwhile, Pati related how she came to make this salad with raw tomatillos, which are not in the Mexican tradition, and other tales of her life and career.

Pati and Son In Action

She will be giving a chef demo at the Olney Farmers and Artists Market on July 28.  It should be terrific!

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We Have Kittens, and Blue Ducks

Last Sunday, a cruel tease was perpetrated upon the Olney Farmers and Artists Market patrons.  The Brownies of Scout Troop 77 from Olney, working with the foster program Partnership for Animal Welfare (PAW), brought two adorable kittens and two grown cats to the Market.  The (irresistibly cute)  kittens were already spoken for!

Amazingly Cute Kittens

They did what they were meant to do, though – attracted a crowd to their booth and to their cause.

Our chef, John Melfi, and his sous-chef Emily winged their way up north from the Blue Duck Tavern.  They prepared Tempura Fried Squash Blossoms with Goat Cheese, Piquillo Pepper Romesco Sauce, and Basil. The recipe can be found here. Homestead Gardens and Penn Farms had squash blossoms on offer, so Market patrons could take some home to try.

John And Emily On Camera

 

Chef John Setting Up

Emily Stuffing Squash Blossoms

 

Frying and Salting

 

Chef John brought his charming family: his wife Laura and 8-month old daughter Arya.

Laura and Arya in the Audience

 

The  dish was a hit!  One hundred blossoms were stuffed, fried and consumed.

The Sampling Line - Emily Keeps Up

 

The Finished Product

 

And one more culinary highlight (for me, anyway) – Pleitez Produce had Romanesco cauliflower, my favorite.  This stuff looks wonderful and tastes that way, too – milder than broccoli but not as bland as white cauliflower.

Romanesco Cauliflower

They had purple and gold cauliflower as well, but for me it’s chartreuse every time.

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Three More Odd Food-Related Things

 

Yet another in the continuing series of strange food-related random observations:

But Wouldn’t Being Gummy Make Them Stick To The Slingshot?

These were on offer at the snack counter at a movie theater in Reston, at a preview of the new Star Trek film.  One is encouraged to collect all four package variations. 

Gummy Angry Birds

I took them to our science fiction club meeting, where we all agreed that they were no better or worse than any other Gummy-thing.  Everyone mercifully forbore tossing the birds at the pigs.  I think the birds make better balloons  than candy, myself.

Hello, Kitty, You’re Toast!

The rummage sale at the Adelphi Strawberry Festival had this Hello Kitty toaster.  Peering inside, I noticed a plate that looked like it would imprint an image of the eponymous feline on one’s toast.  (Sorry for the fuzzy picture.)

Hello Kitty Toaster

The note on the masking tape said, “appears to work.”  I almost bought it, but irony only goes so far.

Inside Kitty - Toast Plate

Have Candy, You Will?

To a party, we went.  Life-sized Yoda, we saw.  Sunglasses, he wore and candy, he offered.  Comma overload, I now have.

Yoda, It Is

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Spring At National Harbor

 

Cherry blossoms, strawberries, and the National Harbor Wine and Food Festival: three sure signs of spring in Washington, DC.  The weather was a little chillier than last year, but the ambiance was the same.  A large crowd enjoyed the view, the drinks, the food samples, and the entertainment.

On Saturday, there was a continuous series of chef demos on the cooking stage.  I saw three of them.  The first, Chef Rock Harper, winner of the third season of Gordon Ramsay’s Hell’s Kitchen, may be heading up one the Olney Farmers and Artists Market’s fundraising dinners later this year, so I was eager to check out his cooking.

Rock Harper and His Food

He did not disappoint.  His restaurant, FatShorty’s,  advertises “sausage, mussels and cold beer,”  and the dish he prepared included all three.  It was spicy and delicious.

Next, Chef Bryan Voltaggio, who is building a restaurant mini-empire in Frederick, demonstrated a deconstructed version of s’mores.  Although this one could never be assembled in front of a campfire, he did employ a blow torch to brown the home-made marshmallows (after he smoked them) – while holding a microphone in the other hand!

Bryan Voltaggio

 What’s on that plate?  Smoked marshmallows, nitrogen ice cream, cookie crumbs, caramel sauce, graham cracker crumbs, and a chocolate wafer.  Scouting was never like this!

Bryan Voltaggio Fired Up

Dessert Deconstructed

So we ate dessert first, and then Scott Drewno of The Source followed that act with a demonstration of sui mai dumplings.  They were filled with a mixture of blue crab, shrimp and scallops.

Scott Drewno Makes Dumplings

He made forming them look easy.  He steamed them in bamboo, then we all ate.  Some of us ate more than one.

Dumpling Eating Crowd

Oh, and just incidentally, there was a beer garden, music, wine samplings, food purveyors, a big bird (not THE Big Bird), a floating car, and a giant, thirsty hand.

All adding up to a totally pleasant day by the water.

Whatever Floats Your...

The Giant Was Thirsty, Too

Nando Bird

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And Dancing About Architecture – Cafe Ballets Russes at the NGA

 

The National Gallery of Art will open another amazing exhibit in the East Building tomorrow, Diaghilev and the Ballets Russes, 1909–1929: When Art Danced with Music,  with a complementary-themed menu at the Garden Cafe.  There will be Russian-inspired and French-influenced “dishes as modern as Diaghilev,” as their creator, Chef Michel Richard, describes them.

Salmon, Strawberries, Cafe Menu (and Coffee, of Course!)

I enjoyed the buffet at the press breakfast and the exhibit.  The salmon Coulibiac was delicious, if not historically correct.  (The recipe in my 1961 edition of Larousse, which quotes a 19th century source, has only fish and hard-boiled eggs in common with Chef Michel’s version.  That said, the recipe provided on the card, and which will be available at the cafe, was just as complicated as the old one.)

Strawberries Romanoff Came With a Recipe Card

Other dishes on the buffet included Russian black bread and strawberries Romanoff.  I met Chef Pierre Cummings, Executive Chef with Restaurant Associates, who trained with Chef Michel to produce the dishes for the Cafe.  He was understandably proud of his role in this wonderful cultural experience.

Chef Pierre

The exhibit is full of wonderful costumes and screens showing excerpts of the ballets in which they were worn.  Also: set designs, paintings, sculptures, prints, drawings, photographs, and posters.  Both Afternoon of a Faun and The Rite of Spring, the two best-known works of the Ballets Russes, are included.

Afternoon of a Faun Costumes and Clip

Other, more obscure productions are also represented.  The seahorse costume is from a production of Sadko: In the Underwater Kingdom, and the costumes with architectural elements painted on them (dancing about architecture!) are from Le Bal.

The Rite of Spring Costumes - Displayed and Danced

Seahorse

The exhibit will be on view through September 2.  This is its only U.S. venue.  How lucky are we, to live only a Metro ride away?

Dancing About Architecture

More information: www.nga.gov.

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The Way To A Fleet’s Heart Is Through Its Stomach

 

I worked for the Navy as a civilian for several years.  The coffee mess was a sacred institution, and I often heard the saying, “Ships float on coffee, not seawater!” And although I never spent a night on a ship, I can understand how essential good food and java can be to the morale of Navy units both afloat and ashore.

When I got the press release from the Navy League describing the cooking demonstrations planned for their Sea-Air-Space 2013 Exposition at National Harbor, I was surprised that so much emphasis was given to the culinary arts in a trade show basically dedicated to showing off the latest in warfighting technology.  Five cooking demonstrations were held daily for the three days of the show, and although I only attended for one day, I was impressed by the full kitchen, enthusiasm, and dedication of the personnel I met there.  The food was excellent, as well.

The Naval Supply Systems Command (NAVSUP, for short) is in charge of logistics and supply for the Navy and Marine Corps.  It ‘s also charged with maintaining “quality of life” for servicemembers and their families – and I’d say food service is an indispensible part of quality of life!

Michael Harants, the Corporate Chef for the Navy, proudly supplied me with many statistics about the Culinary Specialist (CS) rating.  The Navy currently has 7,300 CS’s who served 93 million meals last year from 237 food service operations.  They get specialized culinary training in “A” School.

Each demo was designed to showcase a different chef.  CS2 Richard LeBlanc, from Norfolk, repeated the preparation of his Smoked Stuffed Chicken Breast, just as he had made it to win the Gold Medal at the Annual Military Culinary Arts Competition run by the Joint Culinary Center of Excellence.  Chef Michael explained that this is the largest culinary competition in North America, and is organized in cooperation with the American Culinary Federation.  At the expo, Chef Richard did everything from breaking down the chicken to making the forcemeat stuffing and the barbeque sauce, with the exception of the smoking (not allowed in the exhibit hall!).

 

 

Even without the smoking, it was delicious. 

Other demos were more of a team effort.

Each dish was nicely plated and displayed after the demo.  Even better, menu cards were provided, although the quality of these varied.

Chef Michael is also in charge of the Adopt-A-Ship program, which sends civilian chefs to serve on ships at sea, and provide further training to the CS’s in industry practice.  Of course, the civilians learn from the Navy procedures for keeping the galley ship-shape.  From 40 to 110 chefs a year have shipped out as volunteers – only their travel expenses are covered.

There was more to the expo than NAVSUP, of course – even other food experiences.

It seems that all one hears about drone deployment these days is negative.  I am delighted to report that I attended a presentation by Northrop Grumman, which incidentally provided a nice cold buffet lunch, and learned about an application of drone technology that is nothing but beneficial: an airborne mine-hunting system which detects underwater mines remotely.  Not only does it save sailors’ lives, but it can be deployed for civil incidents.  It was used in body recovery from the Flight 800 crash, and in the fatal Baltimore water taxi accident in 2004.

And no article about a Navy event can close without a mention of coffee (see lead graph).  There were at least four booths on the show floor dispensing the brown elixir, among them SAIC and Lockheed Martin.  They know their audience.

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Change Lobsters, and Dance

I went back to Wegman’s in Columbia (see preview) looking for dinner, and stumbled across a treat: Thursday is Lobster Night.  At the Food Bar, they will steam to order a 1-pound lobster and serve it to you with corn, potatoes and melted butter for $16.00 plus tax.  You can eat it there or carry it out.

It takes ten minutes.  They give you a beeper to alert you when the beast is ready, so I wandered about the store while I waited.  I noticed that they have lobster available in many forms.

Primo, of course, live.  Instead of putting their lobsters in tanks like any other store, Wegman’s displays theirs on a bed of ice.  You can get up close and personal with them.  Maybe not too close.

They also had whole steamed lobsters, lobster rolls, and (priciest), lobster salad.  When I thought I had seen all possible permutations, I noticed one more: the lobster pretzel.

This appeared to be a generous amount of lobster mixture topping an oversize pretzel, possibly the soft kind from Philadelphia.  A woman standing next to the counter (a customer, not an employee), noticed my interest and assured me that she had bought one in the past and that it was quite good.   I’ll have to take her word for it.

There were some very large fish displayed on ice, which Wegman’s employees will slice to order.  One of them held up a halibut so I could get a good picture – thank you, Michael!

 

Then the buzzer went off and my personal lobster was ready.  It was very good.  I had to take two of the three boiled potatoes home as leftovers.  Just one problem: the half-ear of corn was overcooked and mushy – it must have been precooked.  Why not just throw one in the steamer with each lobster?

But overall it was a thoroughly satisfactory  lobster supper.  I look forward to returning some Thursday in the future for another one, and perhaps on a Tuesday to try the steak special.

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