Pati Jinich Stars at the Last Seasonal Farmers Market

It was chilly, sunny and windy at the Olney Farmers and Artists Market last Sunday.  Some of the artist vendors had to take their tents down because of the wind, but in between gusts, the sun shone down.  Between the brilliant blue sky and the red-brown oaks, our last Market day of the fall was beautiful!

There was a lot going on.  In addition to the usual vendors, we had a visit from the Washington Animal Rescue League and some very adoptable dogs.

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Take Me Home!

The Pat O’Brien Band kept it lively with an infectious beat.  Several couples were inspired to dance.

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Dancing – Band View

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Dancing – Market View

Wandering among the artists, I noticed that both our glassblower Ryan Eicher and the Terrapin Pottery had turtles on offer.

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It’s Turtles All The Way Down

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Is it a thing?  Or a theme?

Pati Jinich,  host of the public television series Pati’s Mexican Table, cooking teacher, food writer and chef of the Mexican Cultural Institute in Washington, D.C., was a wonderful guest chef for our final demo.  She prepared Triple Orange Mexican Wedding Cookies while regaling us with the history of the cookies as well as her own experience with them.  Originating in the Middle East, the cookies migrated to Spain with the Moors and then landed in Mexico with the Conquistadors.

Despite growing up in Mexico City and attending many weddings (including her own), she had never heard of “Mexican wedding cookies” until she moved north of the border – where she got numerous requests for them.  She realized that these mysterious cookies were really an everyday affair in Mexico, sold in every bakery, called “Polvorones.”

The recipe for them can be found in her cookbook, Pati’s Mexican Table: The Secrets of Mexican Home Cooking.

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Orange Peel Goes In The Cookies

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Kneading The Dough – Not Too Much!

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The Audience Watches Closely

Rosario from Canela Bakery watched Pati’s demo and then introduced herself.  They got on like old compadras!  (In Spanish!)  But I do know Pati signed a book for her. She sold some others as well.

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Rosario and Pati

Turid Knutsen let me take a picture of her sweatshirt.  She is one of the “regulars” in the chef demo audience.  She received the sweatshirt when she retired from NIH.  How cute is it?

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Mouse-roscope of NIH

 We finished up the 2013 Market season with the traditional rendition of “Country Roads” by the volunteers.

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Y’all Sing!

The Holiday Market will be held December 8 at the Old Hospital Grounds, and then the indoor Winter Market season will start on January 12 at the Sandy Spring Museum.  Don’t be a stranger!

 

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It’s a Rough Job, But Somebody’s Got To Do It!

I was asked to keep this under wraps for a while, but now it can be told: I was a judge for Tulkoff’s Seasonal Spotlight Recipe Challenge.

Readers of the Olney Farmers and Artists Market blog will remember that Linda Anselmi, the company chef for Tulkoff Food Products, gave a chef demo at the Market a few months ago.  She was accompanied by Tulkoff’s Food Service Sales Director, Karen Suter.  Karen contacted me and asked if I would be a judge for their contest, which is open to their customers and encourages creative use of their products.  It took me about a microsecond to accept.

Chef Linda

Chef Linda

We found the Tulkoff factory with a little difficulty.  It’s in the Dundalk neighborhood of Baltimore.  That’s the working port, not the touristy Inner Harbor, but a neighborhood all the same. There are people who have lived there for generations – blocks of houses built right up to factories, railroad lines, truck routes, and shipping docks.

Tulkoff Factory With Houses In Foreground

Tulkoff Factory With Houses In Foreground

There’s a spotlessly clean, bright, airy factory full of giant mixers, bottling lines, and storage areas fronted with a set of offices and a beautiful kitchen complete with tasting bar.  Unfortunately, before our tour of the factory area we were cautioned that pictures were not allowed, so, dear reader, you will just have to use your imagination as I report that one room held two million pounds of stacked horseradish roots!

Yes, it seems that horseradish loses potency quickly when ground, so Tulkoff stores it in root form and grinds in small batches.  Bottled horseradish is one of their retail products; they make many other sauces and seasonings for the hospitality and restaurant trade.

One of these was the subject of the contest: Chipotle Chili Aioli is a piquant mayonnaise-like sauce which can be used to add a little character to many dishes – as we found out!  There were ten entries, ranging from Grilled Vegetable Pizza to Chipotle Hawaiian Wings.

The Kitchen With Sampling Bar

The Kitchen With Sampling Bar

We gathered in the kitchen to taste each one.  Spike Gjerde of Woodberry Kitchen, Chef Linda, Jill Schnoeller of Victoria Gastropub, Karen Suter and I worked our way through a sample of each entry, ably prepared and served by Tulkoff’s staff.  Most of the dishes were good, although some were too fussy or obvious.  It was hard to single out the best from the top three or four, but I did my duty and marked my ballot.

Score Sheets and a Food Sample

Score Sheets and a Food Sample

 

The winner was Steve Shirley from Paramount Marketing Group, Carolinas for his Chipotle Pulled Pork Sandwich. The recipe is here: http://www.tulkoff.com/recipes/details/chipotle-pulled-pork-sandwich/

 

Thanks go to the Tulkoff’s employees who cooked and served us: Ruth Bohls, Erin Smiley, Danielle Hauserman, Angela Guss, and Renee Frantzen.  They were great!

 

Order Up!

Order Up!

And to top off the experience, Phil Tulkoff, namesake, scion, and owner of the business, joined us for a group picture.  Look closely and you will see the award bestowed upon the winner: The Golden Spoon of Deliciousness!

Phil Tulkoff and the Judges: Chef Linda, Chef Spike, The Spoon, Me, Chef Jill

Phil Tulkoff and the Judges: Chef Linda, Chef Spike, The Spoon, Me, Chef Jill

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Feast on Ice and Fire: Eat the Game of Thrones

The Game of Thrones has a tie-in cookbook, and I have reviewed it for SFRevu.  See http://sfrevu.com/php/Review-id.php?id=14929

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Green and National Book Festivals This Weekend

I’m about to go down to the Convention Center for a press preview of the Ninth Annual Green Festival, which will be held this weekend. It will have an expanded variety of food programming, demonstrations and displays.

Joe Yonan will do a workshop based on his newly released book Eat Your Vegetables September 22 at 1 PM. DC vegan baker and two-time winner of the Food Network’s “Cupcake Wars,” Doron Petersan will also share recipes to make her vegan creations at 3 PM.  Both have been guest chefs at the Olney Farmers and Artists Market, so expect good things from them!

 The event also features an Organic Food Court and a Sustainable Beer & Wine Garden.  There are also dozens of booths, demos and displays on the show floor itself that can be explored through the event’s website: www.greenfestivals.org.

I will be dividing my time this weekend among this event, the National Book Festival, and the farmers market.  I intend to rest on Monday!

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Another Area Wegman’s Opens This Sunday

The new Wegman’s store will open in Germantown on Sunday!  I met Jo Natale and Cynthia Glover, the PR folks in charge, for a guided tour.  They were just as gracious as when they showed me around the Columbia store, and this Wegman’s promises to be just as fabulous as that one.

Opening Sign

Opening Sign

We pulled into the covered parking, and noticed that the aisles are marked with vegetable signs like those in Columbia.  I got an arty shot of a reflection.

Rearview Eggplant

Rear View Eggplant

I asked Jo and Cynthia if there are any differences between the two stores.  One big one is that this store is all on one level; the seating which Columbia has on the mezzanine is on one side of the main floor.  This allows the new store to have a large patio with a pergola for outside dining.  Altogether, this store will have seating for 200.

Sphere and Kids Corner

Sphere and Kids Corner

While we talked, there was suddenly a loud crowing noise from overhead.  Above the gleaming counters and prep areas of the new store, there is a mural with a model of a barn; the barn doors had opened, and a wooden rooster was crowing to mark the hour.  This clock is a replica of the barn at Wegman’s organic farm in New York – a symbol, to remember the source of the produce on offer in the store.

View of Wegman's From Front Door

View of Wegman’s From Front Door

We walked through the store, noting the stocking and training activities going on.  The sushi department was huddled around a sushi master, down the counter from a group which included Executive Chef Kevin Grenzig.  He told me that the prepared foods section will feature Italian specialties for the grand opening.

 Rooster Crowing

Floor With Barn

Barn Overhead!

That won’t mean other kinds of food will be slighted, however.  Wegman’s usual array of choices will be present in all their wonderful variety.  The store manager, Phil Quattrini, described a daily special bar featuring rotating regional offerings, such as crab cakes.

 The cheerful bustle of preparation for opening day was all around us.  From the seafood, to the housewares, to the food bars, to the sign guy, everyone was getting ready for the show.

Sign Guy Mike

Sign Guy Mike

Sushi Trainees and Tocques

Sushi Trainees and Toques

The ethnic diversity of Germantown was reflected in the local people hired as staff.  Maybe they will influence the selection of prepared food and groceries?  One thing they have already installed is a kosher deli.  And – another difference from Columbia, and only the third one in the chain – an affinage case.  This is a specially-designed place to hold unwrapped (“naked:” I swear this is the term of art) ripened cheese at perfect temperature and humidity until it is sold.

Chef Kevin

Chef Kevin

Store Manager Phil

Store Manager Phil

Jo showed me the meat aging case, then mentioned that somehow Wegman’s has acquired a reputation for being expensive!  But there’s a selection of merchandise at differing price points.  Many of their staples are sold at prices 10-15 % lower than average supermarkets, on a par with club stores.  I speculated that the sheer abundance and diversity of merchandise in the store might contribute to the impression of priceyness.

Pricey Meat Dry Aging

Pricey Meat Dry Aging

We Steam

We Steam

We walked towards the front, passing the fruit and vegetable cutting stations (cut to order on request, while you wait), the organic salad bar (the first in the Maryland stores), the pizza with the hand-stretched crust, the bakery (everything baked from scratch in the store), the bulk-food section (still there, when other stores have eliminated theirs as a passing fad), and other features too numerous to mention.

Low Meat Prices

Low Meat Prices

Cheese Affinage Case

Cheese Affinage Case

Balloons

Balloons

And just as we concluded the tour and were about to leave, a trolley full of food samples appeared before us and we were encouraged to try it all.  It was the result of a morning’s training session run by representatives of Melissa’s World Variety Produce, Dave Blaich and Frank Afleck.  They were spending a week showing the store employees what could be done with the exotic produce which will be for sale, so that the Wegman’s employees can pass ideas along to the customers.

There was watermelon, edamame, and feta salad; roast kaboucha squash; chocolate brownies with pomegranate arils; young coconuts drilled for their water; dragon fruit and mango salad; a dip made with Hatch chilies and Greek yoghurt; fingerling potatoes with truffle oil; a kimchi grilled cheese sandwich; and a new variety of green, seedless grapes called “cotton candy,” so sweet that they bore the same resemblance to ordinary grapes that super-sweet corn bears to field corn.

Dave and Eaters

Dave and Eaters

Melissa's Food

Melissa’s Food

It was all good – a terrific way to end the tour! 

Frank and Eaters

The Employees Are Happy To Eat Exotic Foods

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Metropolitan Cooking and Entertaining Show 2012, Part 2: Some Selected Products and Exhibitors

The show floor was filled with many and varied exhibitors.  Here are just a few of them, chosen purely by whim.  Three impressed me as earnest entrepreneurs, and one just had a really cool visual.

South Mountain's Tony and Gabriel Brusco

South Mountain’s Tony and Gabriel Brusco

South Mountain Veggies is a delivery service which aggregates the products of over 150 farms and small producers and delivers weekly, directly to area households. It’s sort of a farmer’s market without the market; a consolidated CSA of many producers.  A great idea for those who want to eat healthfully and locally, but don’t have the time or inclination to do their own shopping.

Floury Apron's Fadia House

Floury Apron’s Fadia House

Crackers flavored with exotic spices were the attraction at the Floury Apron booth.  Fadia House started her business to escape from her “empty nest.”  Her Lebanese background provided the recipes for Zaatar crackers; India inspired those flavored with Ajwan.  She also had a spicy tomato sauce open for tasting.

Only Two of the Three Little Pigs: Daniel and Carolina

Only Two of the Three Little Pigs: Daniel and Carolina

And a very local business, Three Little Pigs, is selling charcuterie and salumi from a storefront in DC’s Petworth neighborhood.  They also sell at several area farmers markets.  They were sampling salami, duck prosciutto, and smoked salmon – just a few of the goodies available for sale.  They offer daily sandwiches and soups made with their cured meats at the store.  I wish it was closer to my house!

And the cool visual belonged to the folks from Avocados from Mexico, who drove a big panel truck onto the floor and dispersed tasty samples from its hatch.

Avocado Truck

Avocado Truck

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Metropolitan Cooking and Entertaining Show 2012, Part 1: The Father-Daughter Act and Other Chefs

When Jacques Pepin had to cancel his appearance at this show in 2011, I was disappointed.  In my opinion, he is one of the more influential chefs of the last few decades, both for his partnership with Julia Child and his own elegant, restrained take on classical French food.

So I was glad to see him and his daughter, Claudine, at the MetroCooking Show last November at the Washington Convention Center.  They did not disappoint, both cooperating on the cooking of a many-course meal.  Jacques started on the chicken in vinegar and polenta with vegetables and mushrooms, while Claudine contributed most of the patter and audience interaction.

Jacques and Claudine Cook

Jacques and Claudine Cook

They has a stage set up in an enormous room, with a screen showing them and the cooking action so everyone could see.  Fortunately, the show runners allowed the press to move closer to the stage to take pictures.

Jacques and Claudine Closer

Jacques and Claudine Closer

One lucky little girl, Payton, got to assist them.

Payton, Too

Payton, Too

While Jacques cooked, Claudine took questions from the audience.  What is their opinion of the new crop of chefs? “We love them all!”  What was Jacques’ inspiration for cooking?  “I’m always hungry!”  What is Jacques’ favorite thing to eat?  “Free food!”

They finished the chicken and went on to  potato and turnip puree.  Jacques was asked if  his family has cooking in its background? “There were seven restaurants in  my family, all run by women.”  How did you and Julia work out the process for your collaborative cooking show?  The producers wanted them to cook for a certain amount of time for every show, but he and Julia told them, “We are going to cook, and when it’s finished, we’ll tell you!”

Jacques also cooked Eggs Jeanette, a devilled egg dish named for his mother.  The recipe is available here.  They finished up with dessert: fritters in beer batter.  After the show, some folks milled around.  Jacques left the hall (understandably tired by all the cooking), but Claudine stayed to talk, pose for pictures, thank the culinary students who had helped with the prep work, and sign jackets.

Claudine Signing Jacket

Claudine Signing Jacket

While the Pepins were the highlight of the show for me, they were far from the only chefs there.  I missed the other high-powered stars at the Celebrity Theater, but I did manage to catch some of the other demos at the smaller stage on the show floor.  They represented quite a variety of cooking styles and cuisines.

There were Bonnie Benwick and Tim Carmen of the Washington Post food section, cooking breakfast pupusas Americanas, a recipe from the new Washington Post Cookbook (reviewed here.)

Bonnie Benwick and Tim Carman Cook

Bonnie Benwick and Tim Carman Cook

Scott Drewno from the Source cooked dan-dan noodles with marinated pork belly.  He showed off a really impressive knife he bought in Singapore.  Tim liked it, too.

Tim Admires Scott's Knife

Tim Admires Scott’s Knife

Francois Dionot of L’Academie de Cuisine demonstrated two dishes: garlic flan with eggplant soup, and panko-crusted salmon with mirepoix.  When asked, what makes a dish taste good? he replied, “A balance of sweet, sour, bitter and salt tastes.” A universal principle, in my opinion.

Francois Dionot

Francois Dionot

Next: The Met show’s products and exhibitors.

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Not the Civilian Conservation Corps

There’s an organization for every profession, and one of the world’s most exclusive has to be the Club des Chefs des Chefs – the club for chefs to heads of state.  I had a chance to meet many of them last month.

Every year, they meet in a different country.  This year they were here in the USA, and twenty chefs from all over the globe were gathered at the National Press Club for lunch and a press conference.  Earlier in the day, they had been to the White House, and met President Obama.

The CCC meeting lasts for a week each year, and they don’t just sit around in one place; they had been on a gastronomic tour of the East Coast, from the famous Stone Barns in New York State, through Amish country, to DC.  There were planned visits to Union Market, one of Jose Andres’ restaurants, and a burger joint.

They filed into the room, pristine in their chef’s whites.  Each jacket had a crest and flag embroidered on it, along with the chef’s name.  They took seats at the front, flanking the podium.

Right Side Chefs

Right Side Chefs

Left Side Chefs

Left Side Chefs

The chefs had come straight from lunch.  What did Susan Delbert, the Press Club chef (and past and future demo chef at OFAM), feed them?  “A simple meal – featuring Virginia bison steak.”  Despite being invited to move up to the front, Chef Susan stood in the back throughout the proceedings, until she joined in the group shot at the end.

 

There were remarks by Myron Belkind, the event host and vice-president of the Press Club; Gilles Bragard, the executive secretary and founder of the CCC; and Christian Garcia, president of the CCC and chef to Prince Albert of Monaco.

 

Myron Belkind

Myron Belkind

 

Gilles Bragard

Gilles Bragard

We learned about the diplomatic work the CCC is doing, to promote global understanding through food, and that the best food in the world is your mother’s.  The job of these men and women is to be true to one’s native cuisine and showcase the products and gastronomy of one’s country; and that if politics divide men, a good table reunites them.

 

Shalom Kadosh, chef for the President of Israel, spoke of organizing charity dinners in Israel, produced by a kitchen staff composed of half Israeli, half Palestinian chefs.  When he prepared a dinner for Shimon Peres and the King of Jordan, he chose, symbolically, a fish which swam in waters between the two countries.

 

Chefs S. Kadosh, C. Garcia, M. Flanagan

Chefs S. Kadosh, C. Garcia, M. Flanagan

 

 

Many questions were directed to Cristeta Comerford, the White House chef.

 

Chef Cristeta

Chef Cristeta

 

According to Chef Cristeta, her job is to serve the White House with healthy, fresh, seasonal meals; and no, she is not the only woman in the CCC – there are a few others, but they didn’t come this year.   She was gracious, but was not spilling any secrets about the First Family.

 

For Ferrier Richardson, the chef for the President of Gabon, the best part of the job is getting to know the President and watch him with his family – and getting to meet Pele!

And the best part of my job is getting to meet Chef Cristeta!

Group Shot of Chefs

Group Shot of Chefs

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The Governor’s Cookout Redux

Once again, in honor of Buy Local Challenge Week, Gov. O’Malley held a party on his lawn for folks involved in local food production and the press.  As in years before, tents were erected and tables under them were populated by teams of Maryland chefs and producers offering samples of their creations.  This is the sixth year the Cookout has been held, and the sixth edition of the Buy Local cookbook has been published.

By all accounts, the weather was the best in memory.   The food matched it.

I started with soft-shelled crab presented by Chef Paul Bartlett from Phillips Crab Deck.  Was this the best dish at the picnic?  I may be biased because it’s my favorite way to eat crab, but the soft-shells were matched by the crab cakes on offer from Chef Martin Saylor of the Coastal Sunbelt Produce Company.

Soft Shell Crab On Offer

Soft Shell Crab On Offer

But I’m going to declare the best entree of the evening to be the bison ravioli in Bay Blue Mornay sauce created by Chef David Hayes of Bistro St. Michaels.  He used two kinds of cheese from Chapel’s Country Creamery for the sauce topping the ravioli.

Crab Cakes Too!

Crab Cakes Too!

 

 

For dessert, Gertrude’s Charlottetown Farm ricotta doughnuts with peach caramel sauce stood out, not just because all the other desserts were ice cream (I’m not complaining, you understand), but because John Shields, owner of Gertrude’s and tireless promoter of the Chesapeake Bay and its products, was there.

Chef David Hayes of Bison Ravioli

Chef David Hayes of Bison Ravioli

 

There were tables under a tent, for folks to eat and schmooze.

 

Gertrude's - John Shields on Left

Gertrude’s – John Shields on Left

 

Did you know that there is a beehive on the Government House grounds?  Neither did I.  The beekeeper had a table to talk about bees and hand out literature.  Governor O’Malley has taken to presenting jars of his bee’s honey as official gifts.

 

The Governor's Beekeeper

The Governor’s Beekeeper

Schmoozing Table

Schmoozing Table

 

Speaking of the Governor, he was there, but did not play with the band, nor did he issue a proclamation, as he did last year.  Even with his quick walk-through, we managed to get a picture.

 

Miss Delmarva

Miss Delmarva

 

To make up for that, there were not one but two Queens present: Miss Delmarva and the Watermelon Queen.

Watermelon Queen

Watermelon Queen

The Governor Passes Through

The Governor Passes Through

There was a guy in a great tie.

The Guy in the Tie - Chris Runde

The Guy in the Tie – Chris Runde

And at the very end, two hats canoodling.

Hats Canoodling

Hats Canoodling

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Putting My Mouth Where My Mouth Is

I claim to be an omnivore, or as close to it as possible – so when I saw the notice for the Royal Dutch Embassy’s tasting and discussion on insects as a food source, I knew this was a chance to prove it.  Besides, I was disappointed when this year’s promised cicada invasion didn’t manifest in my part of Maryland, as I had hoped that that would be my opportunity to experiment with the culinary possibilities of entomophagy.  This event would be a perfect way to make up for it.

Members of the press were invited to watch as the insects were being cooked, so I arrived early and was escorted to a kitchen where several chefs (volunteer Embassy staff and two of the discussion panelists) were engaged in prepping a range of ingredients.  These included the usual: asparagus, crepe batter, avocado, mealworms, crickets, cicadas…

Preparing Mealworm Crepes

Preparing Mealworm Crepes

Daniella And Her Apron

Daniella And Her Apron

 

Yes, we were going to be treated to such tasty treats as mealworm crepes, cricket guacamole, and cicada-and-asparagus-on-a-stick!

Daniella On Camera

Daniella On Camera

But first, we were challenged to try them straight – without any wimpy crutches such as pancakes or mashed avocado to disguise their insectivity.  Many of us rose to the challenge.

My First Cricket - Crunchable and Tasty

My First Cricket – Crunchable and Tasty

 

Many more thought it would be really cute to record other folks eating bugs.  This was also an opportunity to interview the entomophagists.  Karina, an Embassy staffer, confided that she had a bug phobia, and thought that eating them would help to overcome it.

Dr. Raupp And Cicadas

Dr. Raupp And Cicadas

Karina On Camera

Karina On Camera

Look!  She's Eating One!

Look! She’s Eating One!

Then it was time for the panel.  Each of the three panelists had a different approach to eating insects: Dr. Marcel Dicke, Chair and Head of Department of the Laboratory of Entomology at Wageningen University in the Netherlands, is co-author of the Dutch-language “Het Insectenkookboek” (“The Insect Cookbook”).  He is championing the nascent insect-raising industry in the Netherlands as a protein source much more efficient than livestock, with the added advantage of no inter-species disease transmission.

He pointed out that there are 1900 different species of insects already being consumed worldwide.  With a projected crisis in protein production coming because of increasing global population, insects could provide a perfect solution.

 

Daniella Martin, our head chef, spoke next.  She is the host of GirlMeetsBug.com, an insect cooking and travel website, and bug blogger for The Huffington Post.  She gave an anthropological perspective on entomophagy, from our earliest prosimian ancestors, through chimpanzees, to fossil evidence of early humans using bone tools to winkle termites out of their mounds.

 

Dr. Raupp,  professor of entomology at the University of Maryland and host of BugoftheWeek.com (and whose name means caterpillar in German), finished up with an in-depth profile of cicadas.  He prefers to eat them raw.  In response to a question from the audience, he averred that adult cicadas would not have time to ingest enough insecticide to cause harm to anyone eating them.  Drs. Raupp and Dicke disagree on this point, as the latter advocates farming insects for food, not foraging for them.  A case of one man’s bug being another man’s poison?

Dr Dicke Speaks

Dr Dicke Speaks

A reception followed the panel session.  Food was passed, both insect-laden and insect-free.  It was fun to see folks challenging each other to eat the crickets and cicadas, just as the press had been challenged earlier.  We old hands just laughed, and ate!

Cicada-On-A-Stick

Cicada-On-A-Stick

 

 I Dare You!

I Dare You!

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